Sort of. That set is 3-2-1 so the primaries are shorter but you'd expect primary + secondary to be similar to the length of the primary in a 4 into 1 system. It's really hard to judge length from a picture but looking at the shape it would have to be a similar length to what's been discussed.

yeap, they dont have those on their website for some reason...

Wouldn't be far off $600 landed here. By the time you add freight it'll trigger GST and entry fees.

OK thanks Guys.

Howsie....the 4 into 2 into 1 looks great however its harder to make and I'd need two tri y adapters plus more bends to weld in.

Picture...yes I spoke to them re the 4 into 1....the shipping was horrendous....you would think they were shipping to timbuktu. then Exchange rate, GST, IETF fee and MAF fee. close to $700 and they are just painted.

Both DEA ones have unequal pipe lengths by the look of it...hard to tell in the pics.

So far I have spent $66 nz on bends (USA summit racing) $150 ish I think on the merge collector which is way better looking than DEA's one. It will be $250 for ceramic coating. Blake provided the Cultus manifold for free as it had the catylictic converter cut off it....so I got the flange out of that. So I guess maybe $450 when its done and it will be ceramic coated. Only thing is....its untested and possibly the wrong length. I have gone to great pains to make the pipes all equal size...The only reservation I have following the now not made SUZUKIRD one is that the N0.1 and 2 pipes are an angle straight out of the head where the 3 and 4 flow easier....I guess the DEA ones do that too but it looks like to a lesser extent than mine. Being slightly smaller even though they are mandrel bends doesn't worry me as the no.3 and 4 pipes will still have that smaller diameter in there first bend. Damn I thought mandrel bends stayed uniform but I guess there is always stretch....

Yes feast your eyes on that welding....rrrrgh.....Im selling my tig...I suck at it...Im off to lachie in the morning to get it fixed...Ill only tack from here on in.

Btw. From the exhaust valve to the end of the header tube inside the merge collector it’s 27.5”. I count the header tube inside the collector as they are all still separate tubes and don’t merge for another inch or two past where they sit in the collector. This seems to be best at 6500 rpm (ish)....so hopefully I don’t kill any torque.

You'll just need some practice with the Tig. Once you've done 10 sets of extractors you'll be an expert. When I bought mine the first thing I tried was welding alloy tube and that was really hard.

Here's an idea, you could make the pipes from PVC.

I'm not really taking the piss, make a jig using a spare engine. So block, head and sump bolted up, bolt the exhaust flange on and make a bracket to hold the collector where you want it. Take 4 lengths of pvc pipe cut to the exact primary length. Glue removable plugs in both ends. Fill the pipe with hot water or sand and then shape the pipe from the flange to the collector. When you're done all 4 get one piece mandrel bends made for each pipe and weld it up.

On my Janspeed extractor none of the primaries are straight with just bends top and bottom. They all curve in towards the block and then out again to varying degrees to get the lengths the same.

Pic of DEA 4-2-1 was for reference, I know you are doing 4-1. It was just to show how they had positioned the pipes etc cos Sam couldn't get good photos of his on the car.

Tig. If only I had one, I could weld all sorts...
Tig is patience and when you only do it once now and then, it takes a while until you are good.

Looking good so far!

Thanks Guys...you are too kind...really...I have a mint TIG machine...a little electronic job...definately not a cheapie....I just suck at welding with it.

here are some more pics.

There is one piece still not fitted....you will see it...it still has to be fitted properly. yes you can see some more attempts of my welding....dont think it will fall off but I have some porosity....and TIG does not weld over it....rrrrgh.....I cleaned the buggers up inside and out too. it looks like the rear is going up slightly...thats because I made it that way...had to clear the gearbox to engine bracket with the top pipes but wanted more clearance over the chassis brace. there is not way I could do this without that dummy engine and gearbox fitted...I wouldn't want to do it on my race motor! pipes are within 1/2" of each other...if ya reckon thats not close enough...give it a go!!!....lol...its amazing how 1mm too much material removed throws the whole setup out by a mile when trying to get these fit ups tight....

anyway...here is a test fit....so far the fabrication is going OK...if you remove the welding from it...

I have much respect for people that make these things....it was fun at the start....now Im over it.

Tidy as!

Can you make me a set now?

All projects are fun at the start, then one starts to question one's sanity somewhere along the line. It would not be a project if you didn't!

Great work, love it!

Thanks Michael. Yes sanity tested. Half way though I looked at the cast manifold....then got an asahi dry out of the mancave fridge....then looked at the cast manifold again....thought....that might be 10000 times easier to refit.....then carried on.

Here is the manifold so far.....now how do I seal the merge collector? Can’t be welded all the way around....mmmmm......just leave it as a slip joint? Also have to weld the flange right round and then surface it.

Perhaps you might see lachies welding beside mine....he tried to tidy mine up....thank goodness for friends.

Was going to get them ceramic coated because I hate rusty pipes....but lachie made a good point....test the buggers first when it goes to the dyno.....then if all good rip them off and get it done.

Aint nothing like a pro doing work and people complain about the price!

Reminds me of a story I read about Picaso as an old man who was doodling on a napkin in a cafe, a lady saw it as he was about to throw it away and said, "I want that, I'll pay you for it."
He replied, "That will be $20,000".
She said, "That's outrageous, it only took you a few minutes to draw on that."
"Lady, it took me 60 years to do that."

Can you tack the collector where you can then allow the ceramic coating to bond the rest? Wouldn't want it to flex and crack the coating.

Mmm Asahi, good choice sir.

Yes I am ok on a lot of mechanical stuff but like plastering or laying bricks I pay others because I just do not have the patience or the knowledge. The only weeding and gardening tool I own is a bobcat and I’d rather lick a sweaty Roman sandal than paint with a brush.

I have lots of offcuts now and a few reject pieces so I have no excuse not to practice. Except time.

Anyhoo....I need to decide where to put the oxy sensor bungs....probably in a piece of 2.25” pipe just behind the collector. I’ll have two bungs....one for my innovate sensor and one for Chris to use for tuning. Once he has finished I’ll chuck my other sensor in seeing as it’s already wired up to the blue light that races up and down giving a visual on the AFR....blue full rich....then colour lights down to red....off or lean. It’s just nice to know you have gas going in under power. The innovate sensor will just log through the ECU. More for assessing and tuning purposes and showing trends. I don’t want another dead engine.

Those slip joints are a pain, I'd suggest getting then on as far as you can and then tacking them. I had a 4AGE set with a similar collector, it always leaked so in the end I replaced it with a welded collector. I think I posted a photo of the other collector type a few pages back, that's what I'd use. It's also a merge collector ( ie primaries merge together rather than end abruptly ) which would be better for this type of extractor.

Apart from my dislike of slip joints they look good. You just need a cone of 7-10 deg and they're good to go. It'll be interesting to see what the dyno says. If they're good you should see 3-4hp.

Ok thanks Sam. Based on that I’ll mod the slip joint to weld it. To make it leak proof I’ll have to shorten the slip joint parts which will not change the merge collector part in any way

SRD primaries are 1.75, then to a 2 inch collector. I'm changing that and going with a 2.5 inch collector.
They did not have for the g13 when I wanted but the g16 is the same line up with the exhaust ports so I had a tab welded on to the flange, otherwise the rest of mounting holes lined up as well.

Swift12, I'm interested to hear you dyno gains with your new extractor

hi there...from what I have read its not necessarily the best idea to increase the size of the primaries too much because you lose gas flow velocity.

The ports in the head are 35mm...the ports in the cast manifold are 35mm or slightly under which then go to 35mm in each port out to the front pipe. so two 35mm ports go into one 35mm port for the four into two into one.

I decided to stick with 1.5" pipe which gives 34.9mm and slightly less in the turns even though its mandrel bent all the way through to the collector. The only area im concerned about is the welded areas....I tried to make a flexi drive with a sanding block on it to clean up any inside mess but it got stuck more than once and I lost my $hit big time so I gave up on it.

I figure that the gas velocity will be high in the primaries and expand out into the merge collector which is 2.25"...my resonators are 2.5". From all reading unless you are turbo going to big on the exhaust will hurt your wee 1300 cc engines power.

I will be interested to see as well!...unfortunately there are a few other changes which may or may not mask the header gains. 1. JE forged pistons but same CR. 2. head and block may be skimmed again. 3. skimming may affect valve timing slightly. 4...will be aviation fuel 100 octane. 5...may have different timing and fuel map.

It is possible that the exhaust effect may be seen especially if the above stuff only makes minor differences.

because of all this I won't be ceramic coating my creation until the results are in....

Yep, velocity is most important, I had a janspeed extractor before, ran 2 inch pipe. Then decided to try it without the pipe, guess what? I gained about 5whp. So I went up in size to 2.5 pipe. Presently I'm a bit hesitant to go up in merge collector size but I'm willing since I'm increasing compression significantly. I will report my figures on the dyno. Valves were left stock size so that should help with velocity.

I get my forgies this week so watch for the rebuild again soon. If I ever get away from work....rebuild, new radiator, bonnet louvres, ducting and front splitter. Then back to the track.




I’m a weapon of massive consumption, it’s not my fault it’s the way I’m programmed to function”

Ok I’m all searched out.

I have Suzuki sport calipers on the front. Tokico brand. I’m looking for pads with better bite for an 800 kilo car. I don’t have a booster. I’m running the gti MC. Pedal feels fine. Very stiff with the endless mx72 pads....but they take ages to heat up enough to be effective. The discs are zenolli 12slots.

I’d like pad numbers pfc, ferrodo, Ebc, mintex etc. not all calipers are the same. I hav3 the Nz/aust tokico calipers. They say FRP3118 on the ferrodo website....but do you think I can find them?

Trust me bro, GLOC