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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Washington State
Here is the link to my information for the Wilwood setup. It is a lot of reading, and math. If you want a copy of the dxf files for the front bracket that I designed or rear let me know. There is a few little changes that need to be made when you bring it to a machinist with a CNC machine. You will still need a hard copy of measurements, and some additions when your enter the pathways in CAM. The front bracket uses two dxf files (front, and top). I would plan on running the bracket reversed from the image below and run the next larger offset hat. I pretty sure I documented this in the write up.

http://ssgtirep.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=171

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:37 am 
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Looks like a good place to start if you're upgrading the brakes, you'd need to work out how to modify the mount to work with the new swift uprights.

With injectors it would pay to do a bit of reading and then talk to your tuner or maybe NZEFI. The old injectors will be EV1 style injectors. New top feed will be either EV6 or EV14 ( EV14 being newer ). They're available is different flows, spray patterns, angles and nose lengths. It would be very easy to get the wrong thing. It's no problem to get the flow you need and dual fan might be a good idea( aimed at each inlet valve when installed in the oem position ).

You'd ditch the oem seals and run the correct o-ring size for the head. NZEFI have different size o-rings for Toyota applications so it's highly likely one will fit the Suzuki.

Obviously injectors mounted in the head will always be a compromise but really all you can do with the Cultus intake. The theory goes that injectors mounted close in will work best at low engine speeds ( hence it's the oem position ). Injectors mounted further up the inlet track will work better at high engine speeds. This is the reason most motorbike itb's will have two sets of injectors with the outer injectors operating only at high revs.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 3:10 pm 
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Location: Napier
Sam7 wrote:
Looks like a good place to start if you're upgrading the brakes, you'd need to work out how to modify the mount to work with the new swift uprights.

With injectors it would pay to do a bit of reading and then talk to your tuner or maybe NZEFI. The old injectors will be EV1 style injectors. New top feed will be either EV6 or EV14 ( EV14 being newer ). They're available is different flows, spray patterns, angles and nose lengths. It would be very easy to get the wrong thing. It's no problem to get the flow you need and dual fan might be a good idea( aimed at each inlet valve when installed in the oem position ).

You'd ditch the oem seals and run the correct o-ring size for the head. NZEFI have different size o-rings for Toyota applications so it's highly likely one will fit the Suzuki.

Obviously injectors mounted in the head will always be a compromise but really all you can do with the Cultus intake. The theory goes that injectors mounted close in will work best at low engine speeds ( hence it's the oem position ). Injectors mounted further up the inlet track will work better at high engine speeds. This is the reason most motorbike itb's will have two sets of injectors with the outer injectors operating only at high revs.


Throw in a 5th injector after the TB?

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Washington State
Sense you have a different upright I could just send you the Freecad file that you can get the program for free and change it to your hearts content.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
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Location: NZ
Thanks Guys.

I don’t know how to use freecad unfortunately. I’ll try softer pads first and if I don’t get a lot better feel and braking I’ll change to the willwood setup. I have to try and get this back to the track...it spends too much time off it!

I have bought some fuel rail extrusion and AN 6 fittings. The extrusion nzefi sells is quite large...it might be AN 8 size. AN 6 size will flow 900 horsepower...lol. It’s larger than the fuel lines as well. I have hard line to braided line adapters....(no Chinese crap...all EARLS OR RUSSELL) ....but why on earth did Tomei make two fittings npt and one bsp?
Of course my Honeywell pressure sensor is npt...and the two adapters that came with the tomei fpr are npt. I always try to minimise leak points. So either I buy a bsp to an6 and use that hole to come from the return of the rail or I have to use an adapter for the pressure sensor.
I could either use AN 6 Ali weld bungs on the end of the rail or tap for 9/16 x18 which requires a 12.8mm drill...the extrusion is bored at 12.7mm already.
Russell sells port AN 6 fittings....direct into the port with 90 degree swivel hoses ends. Or I can get adapters that screw into the rail with that same thread and use cheaper AN fittings on them.....they seal with o rings. And just the nylon braided fuel line.

Is this all worth doing? I dunno....but it sure is prurdeeee! I really don’t like the stock fuel rail....
1. It has a reg and the tomei just ups the pressure a little....the tomei can do the whole job.
2. I can’t get the rail and injectors off without removing the manifold because the fuel rail catches on the manifold at the ends.

I guess going to all that trouble means I should up the injector flow a bit to allow more adjustability with a lower duty cycle. Plus new injectors have not done a zillion cycles so might be increased reliability....there are lots of copy injectors I want to stay away from. One of my pots ran ever so slightly leaner than the others and because 4 was washed with oil we can’t tell what that one was like. The only real variable likely to cause this is the injector flow, pattern or any lag in its electrickery.
So new flow matched injectors of quality could be a reliability boost.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:16 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
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Location: NZ
Whoops I did it again.

I had summit bucks to spend. I looked at all the bright shiny bits when I couldn’t sleep here in LA. I got the port full flow fittings one for each end. Plus a few other fittings and the fuel hose good for 350 psi....guess these should handle 43 psi 8-[

I guess welding the bungs on etc etc May be best but using these connections limits the number of seperate joins. AN is used extensively so it must be up to the job and getting someone else to crimp lines up for me would no doubt cost more.

I bought Russell fittings for this job....US made as good as earls, Aeroflow etc.

The rail I bought Is in the pic....perfect AN 6 size and ready to be tapped 9/16 x 18. I will need to end mill the rail for the Viton seal .


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 6:46 pm 
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swift12 wrote:
I always try to minimise leak points.


Me too!

Whether its oil, drool or water, leaks are no good!

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:19 am 
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Location: NZ
Maybe I’m just being foolish jumping in before I have even spoken to the tuner....he might say my injectors are fine....which means I’m just blowing more money....for little gain. Except of course dicking around with this stuff has kinda become my hobby and I spend so much time away from home....so what the hell.

Speaking to a mate about the whole cooling thing....I have contacted pwr reps in nz....to see what their version of the GTI radiator costs. Also investigation how restrictive a thermostat is....it’s obvious that it’s important to heat the engine up quickly...no doubt about that....and run at the right temp....but does the cooling system need to run slower to give the radiator time to act on the fluid or the faster the better? That I don’t know. I know it has bugger all fluid in the system that’s for sure....maybe 2.5 litres?

Was it the ring nip that caused the heat or the heat that caused the ring nip. Sure as eggs as soon as it dumped oil overboard the heat went up so I have zero doubt about the importance of oil on engine temp. I think maybe it was a bit of both. Hot hot day....in traffic...engine heats up just enough to cause the ring nip that would not have happened if the gaps were set correctly.

It will be interesting to see if the bonnet louvres help by giving a second path for the hot air in the engine bay to escape....even better if I have luck with a bit of low pressure to help suck it out. Ducting both front side and back side of both oil and water coolers. I don’t believe a bigger radiator is necessarily the panacea of all ills here but transference of heat and movement of air is the first place to start. I’m under driving the water pump....do I have cavitation or perhaps is it running too slow?
All good thoughts while sitting in Los Angeles with bugger all else to do. I have goodies to take home with me. The exhaust bends didn’t turn up...but I have 10 yards of carbon cloth and arp head, main and flywheel studs/bolts. Few more goodies from pro wire USA. I tried to find automotive screened two wire for the knock sensor in NZ....I didn’t find much....only some stuff from Auckland for the price of a tummy tuck per metre. So I bought 50 feet from prowire. I’ll use what I want and sell the rest. Also three pin plug for the Honeywell fuel pressure sensor that doesn’t come with the price of a box of genuine Cuban cigars. (Having said that nzefi has supplied me a lot and 8 think they are reasonable for price)

Enough being verbose today...the rambling is even pissing me off.

Check back over the next month. Instalments of the never ending saga of Mighty Mouse will include.

1. Making of a four into 1 exhaust ceramic coated
2. Making an aluminium sump
3. Ducting and cooling mods.
4. JE high comp pistons arrival and the third rebuild (which will be done by LLAMA engineering in Wellington and then retuned by Chris Wall of prestige tuning.
5. Trialling different front brake pads
6. Front splitter
7. Fuel rail build and possible injector change
8. Possibly modding the cultus inlet manifold to lengthen the plenum at no.4 and rid all but one vacuum takeoff.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:15 am 
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For what it's worth I think you'll find air flow will be the single biggest factor in keeping your engine cool. I run a bigger radiator, 11 row oil cooler and have bonnet vents but I still have issues with heat when it doesn't have air flow. No issues at all as long as it's moving. The only change I might make would be to increase fan capacity.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:07 pm 
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Do think the fan works at speed? Normal driving no issue....iat warm down speeds...it cools immediately....it just sits pretty much on the power without going below 5500 rpm for 10 mins while racing


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:42 pm 
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I would expect the best effect on your cooling is ducted air flow. Id say no to the fan operating at speed, depending on what temp the fan switch operates at. Even my motorbike fan does not kick in until 100deg and that is after 15mins of slow city driving. It does have awesome air ducting though :D

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=113176
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=113177
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.ht ... 3&A=113178
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_113157/article.html

While you are on your way home, here is some reading, if you have never come across this site before. Real world testing and results. Something to think about with your venting/cooling dilemma.

Hope this sparks some ideas.

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:11 am
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Location: Trinidad
Best break pads I've used are GLOC, much better than EBC and Hawk. They can make pads for any caliper if you send them a sample.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:46 pm 
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Certainly my car doesn't require fan if it's moving, it's only at low speed that there's any issue. I've resorted to driving around in first gear and then rejoining the start queue with a minute to go in order to keep cool. Even moving at 20k is enough. If you have temp issues at speed then I'd say increase the radiator size.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:29 am 
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Location: NZ
All good points. I never had issues at speed before but then again the engine just keeps going up in power....and lives at high revs....much more so than a gti box. I’m talking to PWR reps eastern in Auckland about it.

Should have waited for the tuner I guess....Chris says injectors are good. Running at 70% duty cycle only....all even stevens thought their entire range....no need to change them at our power level. Yay....save some dough.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:44 pm 
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Location: NZ
When does the exhaust valve open before BDC Sam?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:07 am 
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It's good that the tuner logged the duty cycle as it certainly saves any guessing. Does seem very low as that would suggest the oem injectors could run to 150+ at 85%. I guess you can either make up the fuel rail to suit the oem injectors or sit on it in case you need to revisit the injectors further down the track. With having been rebuilt they should be as good as they can be so with a little extra fuel pressure I guess that all helps.

To work out the exhaust valve opening point you'll need the cam card. If that's expressed as max lift in relation to TDC then convert it to DBC by subtracting the TDC figure from 180 giving max lift after BDC and then subtract this from half total duration giving the opening point before BDC. For example:

278 deg total duration with max lift at 108deg before TDC gives max lift at 72 after BDC. Half duration is 139, subtract 72 and the opening point is 67deg before BDC.

These timing and duration figures came from CAT CAMS as they have their profiles online. If you don't know the timing for your cam then using theirs for a similar lift and duration would be near enough.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:43 am 
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ok the cams are 222/365. but thats at 50 thou lift. so most seem to have 35 or so degrees more for the duration looking at the page of cam specs on REDLINEGTI.
Thats say 257...and I know the cams are supposed to be 106 degrees CL....(from mike cove) and I tested them at pretty much that. Using your figuring Sam it appears to be approx 55 degrees BBDC. They are very close to the BD14 cams in specs which are 60 degrees BBDC. so that gives me a ball park figure.

Looking at your graph on the previous page.

few questions....is this RPM for max torque or max power?
Does it include the collector length or just where the pipe touches the collector....there is 3 inches from the valve to the exhaust port...is that part of the length?

max torque...5800 rpm....at 55 degrees BBDC 31.46" and at 60 degrees BBDC 32.78"
Max power...7500 rpm.....at 55 degrees BBDC 23.6" and at 60 degrees BBDC 24.2"

with the collector under the sump (midway) the length from the actual exhaust valve till it touches the collector is 24"....the tubes slide into the collector 2" before they merge....so that would indicate 26". thats the centreline measurement of the tubes. somewhat better for max power but not torque....your thoughts Sam?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:20 am 
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The rpm your tuning for is for you to decide. The book suggests that between max torque and max power is a good compromise.

The length should be from the exhaust valve to the start of the collector ( but not including ).

That would indicate that the Janspeed extractor would work best at around 7500 with this cam. I think I'd target slightly lower engine speed maybe 6500.

This is a generic table, he also gives some formulas to work out more precise length and tube diameters if you want to go down that path? I suspect you'd need to calculate and measure your tube center lengths very accurately to see any benefit.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:52 am 
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No that’s fine Sam...I’m right in the ball park to split the best power/torque with sticking the collector under the sump like yours....it’s a ball park trial really....much is dictated by what fits.....just wanted to make sure I was somewhere close


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:30 pm 
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Does this help?


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