rear camber adjuster - have an idea - will this work?

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Suzin
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HI

I figured out that the screw pointed on the photo, if changed for a screw similar to the screw used for front camber adjusting, could do the job. Correct me if i am wrong.

Thanks
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pcp01
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you dont want too much camber on the rear tyres as it will just chew up your tyres.
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Suzin
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pcp01 wrote:you dont want too much camber on the rear tyres as it will just chew up your tyres.

i agree but if there was an adjustment i would be able to adjust camber equal in both sides. now there is about 10minutes difference.


how big should the difference be between front and rear camber.??

i have 1deg 30min on the front (1.5)

would such screw do the job to make camber adjustable?

thanks
zedd
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Whiteline suggest 1.75 degrees on the front and 1.5 at the back for a fast GTi road car. Have a read of their 2 page article at the end of this post http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtop ... =7&t=39949 As with all mods - it's a starting point and where you go depends on how you intend to use the car.
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Dattman
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pcp01 wrote:you dont want too much camber on the rear tyres as it will just chew up your tyres.
WRONG, incorrect toe settings will chew out your tyres, Suzin just file the holes out, elongate them towards the wheel, put some washers on and when both sides are adjusted correctly tack weld the washers in place, it's cheap, easy and effective, these cars need a bit more rear neg camber about 1-1.5 for a fast road car.
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southy
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Dattman wrote:
pcp01 wrote:you dont want too much camber on the rear tyres as it will just chew up your tyres.
WRONG, incorrect toe settings will chew out your tyres, .
With negative camber not 100% of your tyre is making contact with the road unless in hard conering, normal driving will just chew them up.
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tekkie
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southy wrote: With negative camber not 100% of your tyre is making contact with the road unless in hard conering, normal driving will just chew them up.
sometimes its better to remain quiet.


Toe settings cause tyre scrubbing. At 0 toe any camber at the rear will have a negligable effect on tyre wear. Incorrect toe in setting will destroy tyres in 1000kms. DATTMAN knows his s**t.. and his suspnsion settings too.

2008: Mk1 TAR car, stock engine, open diff - 1/4mile 14.774 @ 91mph

2006: Mk1- yeah well at some stage to go on track...
2003-2005 Mk3(retired)- EC 1:54.6 , Wakefield 1:13.14 , OP (short) 52.00 , OP GP 1:24.40
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I think what these guys are trying to say is that excessive camber causes tyres to prematurely wear on the inside, which is different to tyre scrub.

Look at your average VT Commodore and the problems they have with rear tyre wear due to excessive camber.
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tekkie
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the commodores had a variable TOE-IN problem... since they also run some negative camber the inside of the tyre wears quickly.

2008: Mk1 TAR car, stock engine, open diff - 1/4mile 14.774 @ 91mph

2006: Mk1- yeah well at some stage to go on track...
2003-2005 Mk3(retired)- EC 1:54.6 , Wakefield 1:13.14 , OP (short) 52.00 , OP GP 1:24.40
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Well there you go, I had no idea they suffered from toe issues too!
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tekkie
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yup s**t setup. Holden denied it was ever a problem, and yet the HSV ran extra toe links which appeared from VX2 nwards (I think it was vx2) ... but "no problem with VT" according to Holden.

2008: Mk1 TAR car, stock engine, open diff - 1/4mile 14.774 @ 91mph

2006: Mk1- yeah well at some stage to go on track...
2003-2005 Mk3(retired)- EC 1:54.6 , Wakefield 1:13.14 , OP (short) 52.00 , OP GP 1:24.40
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Merko
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speaking of camber and tyre wear, my rear-right tyre wears ridiculously fast on the outside edge... so would this be due to excessive toe-in(out?) and not positive camber as I thought??

would worn bushes most likely be the problem or is something most likely bent?
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tekkie
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Merko

have a look with a tape measure, pick a common point from left and right side and measure to the edge of the rim. Follow this up with a wheel alignment check or one of those pedders safety checks for $20. Rear suspension setup on Mk2/3 is very flexible and can quite easily change underload by upto 2 ro 3 degrees if th ebushes are worn.

2008: Mk1 TAR car, stock engine, open diff - 1/4mile 14.774 @ 91mph

2006: Mk1- yeah well at some stage to go on track...
2003-2005 Mk3(retired)- EC 1:54.6 , Wakefield 1:13.14 , OP (short) 52.00 , OP GP 1:24.40
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The problem could also be a bent stub axle if that particular wheel has hit an object (gutter) with any decent force.
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