Guide: Installing Koni inserts (Front shocks)

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1600GTI
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ghostG13B wrote: you will also need to buy new bump stops keep in mind these arent cheap!!!!
LOL Tell me bout it. I almost fell over when I got all 4 bumpstops.
I gave my koni inserts to my mate a fulcrum to fit and it costed me more for the bumpstops than it did for him to fit the koni shocks.
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Kiwi
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Does anyone have an estimate figure for what bump stops cost? Do you need them on just the front or all around?
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1600GTI wrote: I almost fell over when I got all 4 bumpstops.
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Kiwi
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Shazlic wrote:
1600GTI wrote: I almost fell over when I got all 4 bumpstops.
smartass =P~ =P~ =D> =D>

price?
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1600GTI
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I dont get whats funny about the above but anyway they will set you back approx $100-$150 for 4 bumpstops.
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dmwdave
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Think you got ripped big time on that one,try $23 for a pair of bump stops to suit gti and konis!!!!!! :shock:
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Kiwi
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I was expecting far more, considering all round the koni inserts will set you back just under a grand, then a few hundred for king springs all around, $50 or so for bump stops isn't that much more
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ghostG13B
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dmwdave wrote:Think you got ripped big time on that one,try $23 for a pair of bump stops to suit gti and konis!!!!!! :shock:
where from???

i got quotes from 3 parts stores for "strut mate" kits... includes bump stops and bubber boots.
paid around $160 for all 4
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1600GTI
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Well I paid just under a $100 for super pro's bump stops with rubber boots too but thats my special price. Its the going rate for a quality bump stop.
Yeah i got a pair of noname bump stops last time for $30. Took my struts out 6 months later and the bump stops were was shagged.
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dmwdave
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yep the reason your bump stops flogged out was because your car was lowered and still had std length shocks in it,then you took it to a race track and give it a hard time,the bump stops only purpose on a race car is to stop the shock from bottoming out and causing internal damage,so the hard superpro bump stops should be cut down to about 15mm,otherwise on compression your total spring rate will go through the roof(stick one of your superpro bump rubbers in a press on a set of scales and you can mearsure exactly how much extra spring rate you are getting at different bump rubber compressions).If the bump rubber rate gets too high then it has a dramatic effect on the handling of your car,if the front bottoms out the car will understeer,if the back bottoms out the car will step out sideways or spin.
Some of the old school guys (Frank Gardner for one)used the bump rubber as a early type of progressive spring rate before the more normal nowdays use of tender springs over the top of a main spring.This method did work very well but was very difficult to set up initially.
A simple method of checking to see if the bump rubber is coming in to play when you are at the track is to place a cable tie on the shock shaft (as tight as possible)somewhere near the shock body(below the bump stop),do a few laps and check to see where the cable tie has been pushed to,this will give you an idea on how much suspension travel you are using.If the cable tie is pushed up inside the bump stop then you really need to rethink your suspension set up.
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Kiwi
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Excuse my ignorance, but what does the bump stop look like, and where is it on the shock?
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gtaye
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Looks similar to this
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1600GTI
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DMW thats good info I will be sure to try your suggestion with the zip tie.
Thanks
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what diameter do the coilover sleeves need to be to fit the front suspension? are the rears the same size?
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racer5
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dmwdave wrote:If the bump rubber rate gets too high then it has a dramatic effect on the handling of your car,if the front bottoms out the car will understeer,if the back bottoms out the car will step out sideways or spin.
Some of the old school guys (Frank Gardner for one)used the bump rubber as a early type of progressive spring rate before the more normal nowdays use of tender springs over the top of a main spring.This method did work very well but was very difficult to set up initially.
What Dave means by "bump rubber rate getting too high" is like when the shock bottoms out or when you use nolathane (commodore suspension bushes) for bump stops like I have.

Never seen a bump rubber with a rate specified on it. Only ones i've ever seen are the sponge bumps that are basically useless and only prevent the driver hearing a banging noise when the top of shock hits the strut top.

Dave, there is an effect on handling but not "dramatic" otherwise every car on the road that hits its bump stops would be "understeering, sideways or spinning". My car has been hitting the bump stops for years without any dramatic effects. The exception is a very bumpy corner.

I actually used Franks method recently to great effect. I installed Nolathane suspension bushes as shock bump stops and immediately trimmed 1 sec off my lap time. Benefit of what I have done is to reduce suspension travel under heavy load (compression) without the downside of using heavier rate spring. Excessive rear suspension travel was limited resulting in less diagonal jacking thereby keeping more load to the front inside wheel therefore more traction less wheelspin. I didnt notice any mid corner speed loss when I could feel stops in play, in actual fact I think mid corner was faster due to better traction. Proof is in the time.

Pros and cons of what I have done.
Pros - running softer springs (better traction for 95% of the time), reducing diagonal jacking (less wheelspin, better traction, increased corner exit speed).

Con - effectively no suspension travel during full compression (slight oversteer midcorner 5% of the time)

I would recommend what I have done as long as you calculate the correct length stops.
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mlc2318
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Racer5
I recently fitted some new konis to the coilovers I had, and was wondering what to use as a bumpstop as the foam things were in 100 pieces. Found some LX torana K frame nolathane mounts in the shed ( brand new) and they fitted perfectly. I only just saw your mention of using suspension bushes as bump stops! Great minds think alike!!

Q. Did you use 1 only ( as I did) Is there a heigth or thickness the bump stop should be ?
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racer5
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mlc2318 wrote:Racer5
I recently fitted some new konis to the coilovers I had, and was wondering what to use as a bumpstop as the foam things were in 100 pieces. Found some LX torana K frame nolathane mounts in the shed ( brand new) and they fitted perfectly. I only just saw your mention of using suspension bushes as bump stops! Great minds think alike!!

Q. Did you use 1 only ( as I did) Is there a heigth or thickness the bump stop should be ?
Good thinking, they'll do the trick.

One full one plus a bit of another one to get the height I was after. My rear was 68mm (this is the most important one for me).
I dont have any plastic guard protectors and I have done a bit of hammering on inside of guard etc.

I spent a bit of time working it out.
I jacked the car up, took out the spring, then jacked the hub with the wheel on untill the tyre was rubbing on the guard. I measured the distance from the top of the shock to strut top (or mark a reference point and measure when the wheel is out of the way). This was the length of bump stop I needed + 20mm.

The 20mm was what I guessed the height to help with diagonal jacking and allowance for compression of nolathane.

Then I used one complete bush plus one cut (with a stanley) to make up the the length. Then slid them over the shaft of the shock absorber.
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Rear suspension with 68mm nolathane bump stops
Rear suspension with 68mm nolathane bump stops
IMAG0038.jpg (59.25 KiB) Viewed 5478 times
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swift mad
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Hi I'm.now doing this coilover conversion front and back I've done the backs and getting rebuilt and done the work to the arches but wondering on the fronts the sleves I got are 6inch long but shock bit is only 5 if I cut them down will I still have enough adjustment also I tried Honda coilovers before they don't work but they had 11inch springs but seem most of u are using 7inch springs so not sure wot lengths to go for to get the right sort of adjustments also on the back to you put the sleve as close to the hub as poss or as close to the top cheers
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racer5
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swift mad wrote:Hi I'm.now doing this coilover conversion front and back I've done the backs and getting rebuilt and done the work to the arches but wondering on the fronts the sleves I got are 6inch long but shock bit is only 5 if I cut them down will I still have enough adjustment also I tried Honda coilovers before they don't work but they had 11inch springs but seem most of u are using 7inch springs so not sure wot lengths to go for to get the right sort of adjustments also on the back to you put the sleve as close to the hub as poss or as close to the top cheers
Photo shows p/n of the springs I use Kings 300lb front and coilovers I made myself.

On the rear i would go for nearer the top. If you do a search someone has done this before and have some good photos.

Problem I had was adjusting nuts or spring rubbing on tyre. Mainly due to camber adjustment at bottom and not at top.

Re Camber, the tapped screw ensures camber is maintained when stripping and refitting strut, Then you dont need to get a wheel align everytime you remove strut.
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Kings front springs 300lb Part number
Kings front springs 300lb Part number
IMAG0448.jpg (40.83 KiB) Viewed 5064 times
Front coil overs
Front coil overs
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