that may be correct but there is not much wrong with fitting the G13B head to a G16 bottom end. It has been done before and does provide a "torquey" solution for the Swift.

The cams can be individually tuned without the hassle of trial and error you get with single camshaft.
The EFI including the wiring can be retained specially if the user is happy to put up with less then optimised fuelling map (or use Apexi or similar MAF interceptor unit that can be further smoothed out). Ideally AFR should be checked at the end and fuel pressure or injectors modified to bring it into the safe zone.

For street application you could do a lot worse.
And we arent talking about the ultimate power setup here but rather street car using mostly off the shelf parts with minimal expenditure in time and $$$.

its not really minimal time here as like i mentioned before we do not have access ot the baleno half shaft and bell housing here...if we did it'd be alot easier....and what did u mean by less than optimised fuel map? I'll be running a SARD FPR with a greddy emanage piggyback...is that enough?

Fuelling for the 1.3 will not be good enough for the 1.6L (obviously).
If the interceptor allows you enough flexibility with altering the map then yes . Hard to say till you try.

so how much HP do we expect from a G16B conversion? i mean Suzuki Baleno is stock 88-92HP and G13B is around 100HP...the 13B head and 16B block then how much HP would produce?

128

so is it worth the hybrid?
is making the hybrid cheaper than swaping with a d16 honda?
was the swap easy? becasue i am looking at the gap at the tranny...dunno how it would work...
when are you going to run the engine so we know how its doing?

its already running in my car and its fine...all it needs now is a piggyback which i havent installed (only adjusted the AFR via the fuel pressure regulator with a wideband O2 sensor to help) and it just covered 2000Kms of non stop state to state driving without any hiccups

so whats the redline and is the car any faster?

8000Rpms but i wont wanna go anything more than that....cars alot more drivable around town even though my flywheel and crank have been lightened quite considerably...with BD10 cams...gonna install a greddy emanage and fine tune the mapping as i'm running it with a rospen chip @ the [email protected]/h in 5th gear the engines damn responsive and u can just floor the damn thing and it just responds

sounds Nice. IS the block built or just stock because ive read threads here saying to never pass 6500 rps on the stock block. so when i'm doing my conversion i'll like to refer to you for some information

as i have pointed out before....My crank is knife edged and balanced together with the lightened flywheel and underdrive crank pulley...so vibrations are reduced by a fair emount...all parts are stock

how much lighter do you have your flywheel that stock? As I have been told that lightening the flywheel will put more stress on the crank itself during changes in speed ie.[accelleration/decelleration] Due to the fact that the crank is not recognised the most hot-shot bit of gear in the first place.

And you say you have gone to 8000rpm? What rods/rod bolts are you running? As rod bolt failure is a major problem for the long stroke g16b bottom end especially above 6500 the factory rpm

Haha biggest problemin my car at the moment is the clutch hmm brand new excedy h/d= slip to the max on boost every gear

8000rpms but not sustained...cos i have no idea where to get ARP rod bolts for this G16 bottom end

Suzikird used to have them maybe try to contact them

err , the g16 will happily rev to 8600

i disagree on the crank not being happy with the rev with a lightened flywheel , the stress with the longer stroke is on the rods , the reciprocating mass of the pistons pulling and pushing on the rods. you will break a rod before you break a crankshaft.

nomadic wrote


And with all that stress on the rods that is why the rod bolts are the first to go... gotcha,
but is that also the reason that people believe that G16B crank will bend at high revs? I have to say that when i compared a G13B and G16B crank they dont look that different. Apart from the hollow sections where the rods are and i take it this would be the point of failure.

So far ive taken mine to 6500+rpm on low boost and havent had any problems.still running it in though [I am running forged rods and ARP bolts however] Soon 15psi and say 8000rpm = WOOO

where did you source your rods and bolts and how much did it run you?

You know i always found doubt in some of the information about the g16 crankshaft in these threads. I always believe the damages were caused by ill treatment of these engines. i have a G16 bottom end on the ground and its sure as hell going into my car fully built no questions asked. these lil 1300's need some top end. I would love to be able to kill a honda B16 civic wiithout any turbo. That day i will tell myself i am getting somewhere heh.

Due to a seizure of the camshaft on my swift 1.6 GA I was left searching for a replacement head. A lack of funds made the task difficult until i found a gti head c/w fuel injection system wiring loom and ecu at a bargain price. Having reassembled the engine using a Honda cshaft drive belt a thicker head gasket and a small belt tensioner from a GTi all appeared to be going well. I pluged in the wiring loom (could not find oil pressure sensor lead but bought a pressure gauge and connected that) however none of the normal warning lights appeared on the dash display and there was no spark at the plugs. Strangely too the power mirrors do not work either.
As you may guess I am an absolute beginner in this type of convertion should I have changed the coil too? Does anyone know the compatability of the wiring harnesswith the existing wiring in thecar? any help would be appreciated.

along with the engine loom you have to change the engine bay loom as well, and yes put the gti coil in.

Crizby thanks for the help, the engine bay loom you refer to incorporates the coil connections and runs to the main fuse box? Do I also need to change the vacuum canister?

Thanks
Bernie