White Mk3 GTi

Post the details of your Suzuki build progress
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CPC
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 8:07 am
Location: Brisbane

Thought I'd take the time to post up one of my more recent purchases, and to contribute to the forum. I acquired this 1995 GTi in a very neglected state. The previous young owner hadn't had it long and for a whole bunch of reasons she couldn't drive it any more. She didn't know what it was and didn't care. I made her a silly offer, which she took. I knew I'd be able to get my money back if it turned out to be a lemon.

I'd always had a thing for the GTi's but never owned one. Most of my cars are V8 or AWD. I'm interested to see what I can do with this little thing. I intend to do basic mods to make it a mildly fun street car. Maybe I'll get motivated to do a turbo conversion if I think it's a good platform, but I doubt it. I'll have lots of questions to get me started so please bare with me.

Here it is now. I've just put it all back together. Pretty much everything was stripped from the shell (except motor and box) and replaced or refurbed. Sorry for the crap pics as it sits in the garage.
Exterior 1.jpg
Exterior 2.jpg
Rear quarters and rear bar will need some paint. I'll get around to that.

Here's an interior shot.
Interior.jpg
Here's the mods I can recall doing:

BC Racing BR RA Type coilers
Super Pro bushings - every bush replaced. Competition durometer used where available.
New rack ends, tie rod ends etc.
Came with a Whiteline front strut brace

Brembo ceramic pads
Custom 'J-hook' rotors
Stainless braided brake lines

Momo 'Race' wheel in 330mm from memory
Custom WC Latheworks shifter knob with extension

And all the other usual stuff - new driveshafts, filters, oils, fluids, gaskets. The shifter had been cut and shut which is why I went with an extension. I deleted the air con. It has a Suzi Tech instrument facia plate lol. I removed about 100kg of audio gear out of it and found a stock Suzuki head unit. I also ended up repairing about a kilometre of wiring that had been butchered with audio upgrades over the years. I have some 15" Wedssport Professors to replace the white 16" wheels it's currently wearing. Just need to decide on a tyre size and type.

Any and all comments welcome. I'll have a hundred questions in my next post.
saczel
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Location: Brisbane

Nice score and it has the same steering wheel as mine. I have recently upgraded my tyres to 195/50r15 yokohama advan neova’s and with stock height and castor it drives like i wanted, not too harsh and really sticks to the road. I just have to see how long they last. On my wheels 38 offset i can’t add any castor so 35’ish in 6.5J should clear the inside with most settings. Try and upgrade the rear toe bars as well.
gtpswift
Posts: 1643
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Location: Australia

I like a white GTi. Nice looking car.
GTP
CPC
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 8:07 am
Location: Brisbane

saczel wrote: Fri Jul 23, 2021 5:32 am I have recently upgraded my tyres to 195/50r15 yokohama advan neova’s

Try and upgrade the rear toe bars as well.
Thanks. The AD08R is high on my list. The rear toe arms seem very flimsy but I can't find readily available aftermarket options. Suggestions?

I'd like to know where people are setting ride heights on these things. Also alignment settings. I'm not particularly worried about tyre wear. I'd like to use the pillow ball strut tops for caster (although I'm painfully aware it's non-power steering) and set camber at the clevis/hub. Are aftermarket camber bolts available for these cars? What toe settings do these like?

Cheers.
saczel
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Location: Brisbane

I personally like zero toe front with a bit less than 1 degree negative camber just so it gets moving better from the start and 1mm toe in on rear each wheel keeps it from wandering too much on the highway. Standard height rears King extra heavy duty, and front coilovers Eibach 350lb adjusted to match. The rear toe bars i originally got from suzitech had rose joints but wore to excess sloppyness in no time so i bought some urethane rubbers from fulcrum and got a mate with a metal shop to turn down some steam pipe and tig some threads i got made to the pipe and they are working great. Compared to the stock bars they are overkill and the rear behaves great now. In my opinion stock height is low enough but previous efforts at lowering further just made it annoying as a daily driver.
gtpswift
Posts: 1643
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Location: Australia

This is too low! But looks great!
IMG_20190622_103620.jpg
35-40 mm lowered is about right, Decent dampers and circa 280-300 Lbs fronts and about double rears is a good road spec spring...as long as the dampers can control it (koni not KYB/Monroe)
I like 1-2mm total toe out at the front zero toe at the rear. 2.5 negative camber front 1.5 rear ( I have adjusted rear tops). I use semis for tyres to good effect. Tramlines like a pig!

GTP
X93
Posts: 262
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: Newcastle
Location: Newcastle

Congratulations on the purchase and thumbs up on the repairs.
Take 1 - Red 93' Mk3 XBE273
Take 2 - White 91' Mk2 AAR53Y
Take 3 - Black 95' GTi
saczel
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Location: Brisbane

A plug for the boss.
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CPC
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 8:07 am
Location: Brisbane

The horn doesn't work on this car. There is power down at the white wire that plugs into the horn. There is no power on the blue wire, but I guess that's an earth.

Should I be seeing constant power at the brass pin that maintains contact to the steering wheel boss? This pin here:
IMG_0426.jpg
There is no power at this pin in my car. Cheers for any help.

Oh, I'm also trying to chase up a drivers side window strip. I need both the inner and outer. I'm also trying to chase up a rocker cover.
saczel
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Location: Brisbane

I had the exact same problem on mine. One part was the worn brass ring that was in a molding on the back of the momo wheel which i can sell you cheaply as i made a few up and the other part was wire which is crimped onto the other end of that contact point. If that thing moves in and out too much the constant movement eventually breaks the wire as it keeps bending on the same spot and the wire gets brittle with age. You will have to remove the whole set up and carefully solder the wire back onto place, but it’s spring loaded and takes a little finese. Not for clumsy fingers. Once that is done resist the urge to keep pushing it in and out. I might have some photos of my effort. From memory it earths through that pin to complete the circuit, check for earth from pin to steel body somewhere.
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CPC
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 8:07 am
Location: Brisbane

Fantastic info saczel! Thanks very much. I'm guessing it's that blue wire you've soldered on?

I have a momo boss that looks to have a worn contact ring, but it still looks like it would provide enough to complete the circuit. I'll pull the stalk assembly off and see whats going on behind it. I looked at pulling it off the other day but I thought it might be a prick of a job. If I need a new contact ring I'd happily buy one off you.
saczel
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Location: Brisbane

The old ring on my wheel was only just starting to wear through and was making the pin move a few mm but the other end was only hanging on by one strand which broke when i touched it. Correct on the blue wire which disappears into the unit once you take your finger off it. Don’t heat it too much or it could melt the plastic that holds it. I remember using a wet rag to cool it as i was doing it. The molding will need to go on a tray in the oven to soften it or else the plastic will split. Just hot enough that you can hold it with your fingers and pull it out, same to get new one in once you have soldered wire on the back.
redlinecs6kxfar
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2021 11:03 am
Location: cn

Wow, that is awesome work!https://autowikius.com/
instantshine
Posts: 93
Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:11 am
Location: Aruba

That is a nice white gti.
keep us updated.
1996-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley,Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1991-GTi:
1989-GTi. Turbo.
2003-EVO7 GT-A
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FlyingGrape
Posts: 2054
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 3:03 am
Location: Canberra

ImageET 13.138 at 120.2mph
CPC
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 8:07 am
Location: Brisbane

FlyingGrape wrote: Tue Sep 07, 2021 8:22 pm Below article from back in the day on suspension setup might help

https://www.whiteline.com.au/images/art ... ng_33a.jpg
https://www.whiteline.com.au/images/art ... ng_33b.jpg
Cheers mate. I found that article and I'll use those settings as a guide for my car. I had an alignment today and have the following:

Front:

-1.75 camber
0.0mm toe
+5.0 caster

Rear toe is set to zero. I asked for a couple of mm toe out each side to wake up the rear end but it seems they overlooked it. I've swapped the front strut tops from left to right and maxed out caster there (towards the firewall) and I'm using camber bolts for camber adjustment. I can keep SAI somewhere close to stock this way.

I also fitted a Superpro adjustable 20mm rear sway bar and a set of 15x6.5" Wedssport Professor Oser with Bridgeston RE003 in 195/50x15. There's not much left to do suspension wise unless I start to modify arms or pick up points, and that's not happening. It handles reasonably well.
saczel
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Location: Brisbane

I tried 2mm and 1mm toe out each rear and it did jump into corners ok my arms where getting rsi on the highway, you just can’t relax.
CPC
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 8:07 am
Location: Brisbane

saczel wrote: Thu Sep 16, 2021 7:34 am I tried 2mm and 1mm toe out each rear and it did jump into corners ok my arms where getting rsi on the highway, you just can’t relax.
Hmmm good to know. Thanks for the info mate.
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