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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
I've replaced the rear shoes and brake drums. Didnt touch the wheel cylinders as they looked to be in good condition.

I was just curious about how the brake pressure is distributed throughout the car. I assume it is 75%front, 25%rear.
I would like 100% going to the rear as I have no front brakes.
Just curious if anyone knew which 2 lines would give me maximum pressure as there is 3 ports in the master.

It will not idle. Must have foot in the throttle(runs great at 1300-1500 and on from there. Running extremely rich. Spark dances on number 1 cylinder. Some times will idle around 1000rpm for 10 seconds then acts as if a shut off switch kicks in and falls on its face.

I dont know why I hadn't thought about the pressure regulator like that. I believe you are right. I would only lower the pressure behind the fuel rail. Wouldn't change anything

I have calibrated the tps many times. I have never been happy with the ohms check from it. Tested ecu pins yesterday #5(ground for most sensors) and #21(idle switch for tps) this was constantly grounded no matter throttle or tps position.

Afm was a little out of spec(FSM said between .2-.8v mine was at .86v, voltage went up as rpms increased)

New plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Air gap in dizzy if correct, plugs gapped correctly.

I have not been able to get consistent number from timing. Jumps at idle. Though is steady if throttle is applied and held at rpm. (With me running a jumper wire)


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:30 am
Posts: 471
Location: Napier
Bear in mind I'm not a guru like some others here, just trying to work things out logically :D

Rear Brake Cylinders - did they expand and retract smoothly? I would not expect them to be stuck though.

Disc and Drum setups have a metering valve, meaning the fronts do not engage until a set pressure is reached so the drums engage first, then the disks at the front. This is to ensure stability.
There will be a proportioning valve which you can remove if you want.
With the small amount of weight at the back, I would be surprised if you cannot get them to lock.

Idle - TPS calibration. Do all these readings check out? https://www.redlinegti.com/forum/vt.24422.htm

Seriously sounds like an issue with the TPS (or another electrical gremlin) if you are saying that you have never been happy with the readings and it runs rich. Is the idle screw adjusted correctly?

Fuel Pressure Regulator limits Max Fuel Pressure, anything above the set pressure is bled back to the return line back to the tank.
Rising rate ones increase the pressure in the line while under boost, allowing more fuel/injector opening rate, but is a band-aid fix at best.

You will not get consistent idle timing if it does not idle :D but it shows you that the car is adjusting the timing at idle (causing it to dance) and is over-fuelling. All controlled by the ECU which is told stuff by the TPS and AFM.
Unplug the TPS and see if it idles? I suspect it will run a default map if no TPS is deteced. Can anyone confirm?
(Jumper wire where??!)

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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 237
Location: Brisbane
If it all copied good this is a link of the us model gt swift with both drum and disc rear brakes. It shows the brake master circuit so it might help.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s6hr5zi24fi9 ... 7Rtva?dl=0
The drum brake part is actually not gt but gm zeon. Some of these files are mixed up.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:48 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
Thank you all for the good information! Great diagrams!

When I have time to get back in the shop I will report back with with more information on rear brakes. I'll try a couple different variations of brakeline placements to see if I can get a little more out of them. Though I dont know what kind of idiot(myself) would delete their front brakes :D ....

I had a little time last night to recheck the tps. It was a long day at work and dont remember all the numbers, but a couple stood out.
At idle position
Fsm for terminals c and a (3.5-6.5 kohm)
Mine was at 1.65 Kohm

Fsm for pin a9 voltage (0-1v idle, 3-5v at WOT)
Mine was at. (1.98v idle, 3.6 WOT)

To bring volts under within 0-1v tps had to be rotated almost complete clockwise.
Hopefully will be getting a new to me tps some time next week

O2 sensor
Fsm .45 +/- .5v
Mine .62-.68 at 2000rpm...
Little on the rich side I'd say

Thank you for all the help. Wish my brain could have retained all the numbers.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:30 am
Posts: 471
Location: Napier
Progress!

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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
It's something.
Found this diagram. I liked it.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 1:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
Problem solved
The tps was shot. Slapped the new one on, grabbed the multi meter, dialed it in, and all ohms readings were within spec.

Fired right up, warmed it up with a bit of throttle(no cold start valve), let off the throttle, and had a nice smooth idle at 900rpm.

Vacuum pressure sat at 16inhg
Fuel pressure at 31psi(still a little high)

Still rolling 12hr days, but couldn't resist a little late night tinkering when I saw a package from Canada sitting on the porch.

Thank you my Canadian friend! I can now go back to having fun with the car instead of chasing demons. The header looks great as well.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 7:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Posts: 1423
Location: Bunya QLD 4055
Fuel pressure should be up around 43 - 45psi - 3 bar

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If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 8:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
From the factory service manual.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:30 am
Posts: 471
Location: Napier
Howsie13 wrote:
Seriously sounds like an issue with the TPS


Hot dang ill be a half decent backyard mechanic soon.

31psi on the fuel pressure is all good. Wouldnt worry about it too much. But if you wanna faf around and get it spot on...

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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 947
Location: NZ
Answering your brakes question. Which line gives you the most pressure out of the MC. Answer is either. It’s the same bore....just two different pistons and seals. The proprtioning valve on your firewall can be removed as this limits your rear brake pressure. Join the rear line together. You could plumb both the lines from the MC to the one rear line if you liked for some redundancy of either piston seal failing in the MC.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 12:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
Howsie13
Quote:
Hot dang ill be a half decent backyard mechanic soon.


Swift mechanic extraordinaire!

Swift12
Thanks for the information, stopped by the hydraulic shop today and snagged a couple bubble flare tees and a short brake line to connect them. 2 lines in 2 lines out. Now all I need is time.

Had a chance to mount the exhaust manifold and redo the pipe front to back. 2in the whole way through, no center glass pack. Loud, a little lower grumble. Tried my hand at heat wrapping the manifold. Bought wrap to insulate rear pipe behind the seats so noone or the harnesses get burned. Manifold turned out pretty ugly, but I lost well over an inch of ground clearance so I doubt it will last long on the sand.

The parts are rolling in, but my shop time has been short.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 6:50 pm 
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Location: Napier
Looks like you could do with a decent underbody brace down there!

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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 12:54 pm 
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Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
I was thinking a skid plate of some sort would be a good idea too. Some 1995 and above front lower control arms would help my postive camber issues to.(read that they are a 1/2-3/4in longer, might be to much angle on the axles)

Had some time today to build a new intake to match the much more functional afm I had received. Got a universal kit for a honda and cut it down to fit. My original tube was well on it's way to cracking itself apart and I didn't like the port for the iac that I am no longer using.

Took it for a spin around the property and ran it up a couple of hill climbs. Really kicking myself for not welding up the differential while the transmission was sitting on the floor. That being said though this thing will idle up or 3rd gear fly hill climbs that modified 4x4s have a hard time climbing out of.

Is it hard to get to the differential in these things? Any special tools needed? I've welded 10 or more differentials up, but I've never split a transmission apart.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 6:20 pm 
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Posts: 947
Location: NZ
The transmission is not difficult to rebuild. There are a few tricks and if you follow the procedure you don't get in trouble.

There was a thread but I dont think it exists anymore unfortunately. Do you have a manual? I am guessing not seeing as you are asking. The diff is the last thing to come out of the case halves so the whole transmission has to come apart to weld it.

One of the most annoying part is having to get the nut off the 5th gear...you have to lock it in two gears at once...DONT USE A SCREWDRIVER BETWEEN THE GEARS. [-X and then once you have the 5th gears out getting the small countersunk screws out of the bearing retaining plate can be a right bugger. You need an impact driver...a little bit of heat to loosen locktite and a gentle impact should crack them loose....then replace them with quality countersunk allen screws.

get a rebuild kit off amazon...it will be fine for what you are doing. replace seals and bearings. do you have any pullers?

others know about welding the diffs and there are other issues with the standard diffs I believe.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 12:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Washington State
I believe the rebuild photos are active on

http://ssgtirep.com/forum/

Just pull down on the 5th gear assembly hub and that should lock everything in place to allow you to take off the nut.

If your not replacing anything in the input shaft or counter shaft once you have the top part of the case off you can pull both input and counter shaft together and set it aside to get to the differential. I would always replace the input shaft seal while your in there and consider spot welding the end of the differential shaft to the differential that way the shaft won't slide out if you break the spring pin.


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
Thank you for the first hand knowledge! I've decided I should probably test it in the sand before I go ahead and pull it back apart. My old transmission had an open differential and was spinning both tires in sand 95% of the time. Had a line on another gt transmission, but it sold before I could get my hands on it.

Thanks again for the words of wisdom. I've read the manual transmission chapter a couple of times now, but mono tone text and technical diagrams are half lost on me as I have never been inside a trans before.

Here is the forum link for anyone who may stumble across this whilesearching. Lots of good pictures and great information.
http://ssgtirep.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 0dad#p3825

Not much done the last week

Deleted brake proportioning valve, connected 2 lines from master cylinder to the rear brake lines using 2 three way tees with a line connecting them. This doubled maybe tripled brake power. Still need to reflare brake ends to fix tiny leak on rear lines.

Lots of light and accessories wired. The cheap amazon switch panel I bought is pretty handy. Though it had to be wired to keyed power as the led lights built into it are always on.

Added a resonator to the exhaust didnt decrease sound levels, but cut most of the rasp and tin notes from angry song.

I am in need of some advice. I am wanting to install the rospen chip that came in the mail weeks back, but it was bent out of shape in the mail. The body appears to be in good shape, but the pin arms are very distorted, not broken though. They can be bent back easily, but I am unsure if it is still internally ok.

What do you think? Bend it back and melt it in or throw it away?


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 947
Location: NZ
if no damage to the solid state part id use it as long as the pins are not weakened by bending them back into shape....Id say they would take a lot to break like repeated bending before breaking so one careful bend back into shape and mount it...solder them in....the solid state part won't be damaged unless maybe there is seeable damage to that part....so as long as it can be mounted and works then there is no reason to worry it will give up the ghost...id try it for sure


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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 2:23 pm 
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Posts: 471
Location: Napier
seconded. Bend the pins back straight carefully and mount in the base. It would take a lot to damage the actual chip and you would see the damage.

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 Post subject: Re: Swift sand car
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 8:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:55 am
Posts: 19
Location: Oregon
Wow how time flies!

I've almost have her all buttoned up and not a moment to spare. 5 days till my event starts. Not a race, but just a huge group of people that get together once a year and try to make the most out of 2 square foot of dune.

I had a lot of pictures and much to talk about, but unfortunately I lost my phone.

The chip is one of the last things I have left to do. I've straightened it out and have it ready to go, but I haven't been able to find anyone who specializes in circuit boards.

I'm going to remove the ecu and see if I can do it.

Thank you everyone!
Hopefully I can upload some pictures and shoot a decent video while I'm out.


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