92 GT Daily Driver

Post the details of your Suzuki build progress
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

This is definitely a work in progress. I use it as my daily driver commuting about 100 miles a day. Long term goals to achieve:handling, braking, acceleration. Roughly in that order.
Some pictures to go with:

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Last edited by GT4LIFE on Tue Feb 27, 2018 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Parts that I haven't gotten to:

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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Interior:

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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

My next project is before rebuilding the engine and turbo charging is upgrading the front brakes. I'm trying to get the cad file for the bracket for the Wilwood Milite Calipers. If anyone has that file floating around I would be grateful to have it. I think I already found some one piece 285 mm disc that will work.
swift12
Posts: 956
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Location: NZ

Gidday there from New Zealand. Got some great looking parts there. I have the centreforce clutch too. I read a lot of Ingo regarding the weights and how they can cause vibrations. The extra clamping force is only 10%. And that's at higher revs. I took them off before I got the crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced. Out of balance at 8600 rpm no good!
I'll keep an eye on your build. Cheers.
Tassie_mk1
Posts: 2096
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:19 pm
Location: Outback Tassie
Location: Launceston, Tasmania

Great work so far! I love a gti with TE37's ( mine has knock off ones).

with the Willwood file there is a few links on here from memory try a search in the "for Sale" and "Swift Technical" sections for it. :)
Back in the game! Now building something mental... Will I ever finish? I hope so! When? No idea.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

swift12 wrote:Gidday there from New Zealand. Got some great looking parts there. I have the centreforce clutch too. I read a lot of Ingo regarding the weights and how they can cause vibrations. The extra clamping force is only 10%. And that's at higher revs. I took them off before I got the crank, flywheel and pressure plate balanced. Out of balance at 8600 rpm no good!
I'll keep an eye on your build. Cheers.
Thank you for the info. I hope it was anomaly on the weights, but I will find out when I get there.
Tassie_mk1 wrote:Great work so far! I love a gti with TE37's ( mine has knock off ones).

with the Willwood file there is a few links on here from memory try a search in the "for Sale" and "Swift Technical" sections for it. :)
I have read as many of the threads as I could find on the calipers. I pm'd both Garndi and the last person that he said he had given the file to. If all else fails I could try the Honda brackets for the 11" diameter disc that is listed in the thread. There really was no conclusion to a lot of the tentative choice brought up on the threads. I can get the calipers on Summit for free shipping, and the Honda bracket, but not entirely sure on the brake disc. I would rather go with a one piece if possible, but anything that would work in about the 285 mm diameter I'm game for.

I still need to check the clearance on the inside 15" TE37, and compare that with the height of the calipers and compare that with height of the brackets. Thanks for the compliments on the wheels; 10lbs a piece is nice. These are the brake discs I'm looking at:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182889427424

They are 4x114.3, 51 mm height, 21/19 mm thickness, but I am uncertain of the bore diameter.
swift12
Posts: 956
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Location: NZ

unfortunately not mate. there is quite a few that have had issues with the weights moving. i would not buy centre force again...probably ACT or exceedy. Having said that..im using the centre force and it does not slip..but I'm only NA. not ever turbo.
no weights...and the pressure plate is balanced with the flywheel and crank.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

A little bit of an update. I have been designing a Wilwood Brake Caliper bracket for the Billet Dynapro Calipers. I have purchased the front end components and I am in the stages of test fitting today. I am posting a screen shot of the caliper bracket which I had to design from scratch. This particular bracket is for 15" minimum wheels with 11.75/ 298 mm discs with .73 offset Willwood hats. The bracket will be easy to convert to 11" disc for those looking for something larger under 14" wheels. I should also be able to flip the bracket onto the other side of the mount for those who need more clearance with a 1.22 hat offset. I'll try to also come up with a bracket for those who want a 0.866 stock offset for one piece rotors.

I also switched transmission after a replacing internal seals, and put on some silcone water blue water hoses.

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I'll post more about the specifics of the brake package later, including plans to match the front with a rear set.
gticon
Posts: 409
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2016 12:23 am
Location: adelaide

hi mate,got some good looking parts there,any updates, interested to know about the centre force clutch .i got one as well and I'm ready to take the crank,clutch ,etc to the workshop 4 balancing . the only info i have on the centerforce clutch is companies hype.
swift12
Posts: 956
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Location: NZ

if it helps I'm running the centerforce clutch. it works fine however we removed the weights....too many stories of vibrations with the weights on...just google it. it applies 10% more force but only at revs...more holding power...I have not noticed mine slipping and I'm 149 hp at the flywheel. it is light on the pedal for sure .I have had the pressure plate balanced with the flywheel and crank plus the cam belt pulley, pulley and front bolt.

if those weights don't self align they can cause vibrations...just saying....
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

gticon wrote:hi mate,got some good looking parts there,any updates, interested to know about the centre force clutch .i got one as well and I'm ready to take the crank,clutch ,etc to the workshop 4 balancing . the only info i have on the centerforce clutch is companies hype.
So far no vibrations from the Centerforce clutch with the weights on, but I'm also still running everything stock on the engine. I won't get to the engine rebuild until summer. As above the clutch is extremely light feeling on foot pressure.
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pictureshowman
Posts: 1505
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Location: Bunya QLD 4055

Be interested to see what you have worked out for the rear brake setup as I am looking at that now. To weight save I will lose the mechanical cable hand brake function and replace with hydraulic inline as it is for race car and I don't intend using it much. I will only need a 1 or 2 piston small calliper to fit the .38" std disc. Matching the calliper mounts to hub mounts will see after I do some more maths. Strain the brain.
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

pictureshowman wrote:Be interested to see what you have worked out for the rear brake setup as I am looking at that now. To weight save I will lose the mechanical cable hand brake function and replace with hydraulic inline as it is for race car and I don't intend using it much. I will only need a 1 or 2 piston small calliper to fit the .38" std disc. Matching the calliper mounts to hub mounts will see after I do some more maths. Strain the brain.

The application for performance street driving will be different than something for racing. The small very light weight setup with the Dynapro Single calipers with the large bore will be around a 54% increase in clamping force over stock setup while the brake pads are significantly decreasing in size, and the thinner .38 rotor will change heat fade. I would recommend going with 11" rotors and that will increase the torque brake force significantly. Below are the clamping force comparisons. I would not recommend going with the larger bore unless you go with a larger clamping force than the 120-7380 Wilwood calipers in the front. My thoughts are that you want to keep the increase in all aspect between front to rear bias relatively the same with a small window of change towards the rear (less than 10%). Also the 6x6.25 hat 171-8975 will fit our hubs. The inside clearance is listed wrong. It should be 5.6" not 5.1". This might give more options to work with the .38" rotors that are lighter than the 8x7 hats. I haven't looked to see where a .38 width of the rotors with a .77 offset will place the bracket. I'll take a look if I get a chance. The Dynapro Single will give you more clearance vertically than the Combination caliper.

I am personally thinking about going with the combination caliper with the parking brake, but I am looking into the hydraulic e-brake opitoin. The combination caliper is relatively heavy, but gives me an increase in pad size, a better proportionate increase in clamping force. I will be going with a 11" .81" two piece rotor with the 6x6.25 hat listed above. The combination caliper will give me a radial mount with the same 5.98" center to center mount as my front calipers. This means I can adjust the bracket I made easily to fit the caliper.

Stock rear
1.181" x 1.181" x .785 = 1.095
1.095/0.518 = 2.114:1

Dynapro Single Larger Bore
2.4/0.518 = 4.63:1
2.114/4.63= 54% increase
Fronts would need to increase by roughly the same clamping force
(The proportioning valve could be used to decrease or increase bias rear to front)

Dynapro Radial 120-7380 1.75 bore
42% increase from stock front in clamping force

Dynapro Single Smaller Bore
1.5/0.518 = 2.9:1
2.114/2.9 = 27% increase from stock front in clamping force
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I'm waiting for the bracket to be cut. Interesting side development. The hat above 171-8975 is now listed as having an inside clearance of 5.10 at Summitracing. I had talked with a guy at Wilwood and had let them know that their catalog was in error. He had said he would look into it. Now it has me wondering why Summit switched their listing from 5.6 to 5.1". I have a feeling that the Wilwood person asked them to switch it. I ordered my second one for the rear. I hope they didn't actually change the dimensions of the product. I'll post up when it arrives. Hopefully it was again a matter of Wilwood either not wanting it listed correctly, or they don't how to measure.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Okay so the outer rim is 5.6", but the start of where they begin the turn is 5.1". I think their is over an 1/8" on either side before it actually begins to raise into the 90 degree. That should be over 5.25" which is what we need in order to clear. I will actually test fit a hub spindle tomorrow to verify. Worse comes to worse the hat will need less than 1/16" to fit on the lathe and that won't structurally compromise anything.
swift12
Posts: 956
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Location: NZ

hey man keep posting...Im watching your build. cheers G. like to know how ya brakes turn out.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

This would be the alternate route versus the combination caliper. This is a Wilwood Dynapro Radial Narrow Caliper:

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This would be the Wilwood version of the hydraulic emergency brake. There is a few more companies that make them. I am trying to find out if the pass through design or the separate reservoir design would be better suited for what I want. I want the caliper to close when I hit my brakes and the ebrake to close the same caliper. I don't know enough about the installation to figure out how they get hooked up. Because the stock setup is left front and rear right and right front and rear left it will complicate the setup. I'm assuming this would rule out the pass through design. However I'm not really sure. If you have the reservoir it will need to split to left and right rear, and then split again at the calipers between the main line and the hand brake. Does there need to be some anti-reversal valve in the main line to prevent the front from engaging. Questons?

My thoughts are to stay with the combination caliper hence no going back in to substantially revise the bracket. That being said I need to figure out the exact measurements for the rear, and take a look at the bracket to see how much it needs to be adjusted. If the brackets need considerable adjustment where my machinist needs to complete whole new CAM code I might be more proned to trying the other calipers.
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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I did a little bit more digging into the hydraulic handbrake. It looks like K-sport has a dual inline hydraulic hand brake. It looks as though you could install both the two rear lines without an additional reservoir. It can be installed horizontal or vertical, and has a lock to hold fluid as a parking brake. It says it requires 3/4 reservoirs, but I think that is if you are running it not inline. I will have to call to find out. If I am correct I would have to route the rear brake lines to the hand brake and then two new flex hydraulic lines out to rear. This product runs about $270 U.S. dollars. This would allow me to use the other calipers and have a substantially better e brake.
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pictureshowman
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Location: Bunya QLD 4055

Thanks for your hard work. Lawry
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I can't take credit. Freak2demon mentioned the k-sports. I didn't look too closely at his pm of what the k-sport design but was interested in reducing weight, and doing away with the mechanical cable without losing the e-brake and parking brake capabilities. Freak2demon had also had showed me what he was thinking of for calipers and rotors. However, I didn't like the caliper and rotor selection for what I wanted and I found the above Dyanpro Narrows. After I found those calipers I started digging into the hyrdaulic e-brake and came back to what he had already mentioned.

I still have to check the fitment of the k-sport e-brake in the stock position and verify it is truly inline. The Dynapro calipers are almost three pounds lighter being all aluminum instead of mixed steel and aluminum of the combination parking brake caliper. The price for the calipers is almost the same, but there is the $270 plus the lines fitting and other materials plus time. I'm thinking flange the stock lines mid way back and run a short flex jumper over and back to the centeral e brake, and then use the stock solid line back and use my aftermarket BF Goodridge flex lines to the calipers. I would like the stock parking brake cover to fit over, but I won't know until I buy them.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Like everything when your trying to make something work you can miss a small detail. The Narrow Dynapro Radial Mount calipers 120-14091 (-BK if you wanted it black powder coated) show that they can take an 11" rotor in the schematics page, but then the outer page lists the minimum rotor size as 11.75". One more thing to call Wilwood about. I did see an alternate for the calipers which is the Dynapro Lug Mount Low Profile calipers 120-12160. This will reduce the brake pad size which in my opinion is good for the rear caliper to 5.1 square inches and reduce the weight by .4 more pounds from the Narrow caliper above. It is a 5.25" lug mount which may simplify the bracket design further shaving weight and it is significantly cheaper especially if you don't want it powder coated. I'll check the dimension for the rear today and compare both caliper offsets to make sure they will work.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Unfortunately the Dynapro Lug Mount Low Profile caliper will not fit on the rear. Going from the 0.39" stock rotor to a 0.81 will cause interference issues that simply won't work no matter which way I adjust it. However, the Narrow Radial Mount Dynapro calipers appear to be able to fit. I will have to redesign the bracket, but it should fit. I did run into a slight snag with the hat beyond what I mentioned above about the inside hub diameter. The offset of the hat I want to go with is 0.77" compared to the stock hat offset of 0.646", and I'm increasing in rotor width from 0.39" to 0.81". These two things will bring the clearance between the backside of the rotor and the hub mount to 0.183". This is not enough room to get a bolt head in between. I thought about studs, but I need to be able to turn the bolt. I did find ARP 3/8-24 x 1.25" UHL (723-1250) low clearance bolts that reduce the head height from .39" to .30". I need a minimum of 0.38" between to be within the 0.08 tolerance. My solution is to lathe the thickness of the hat 0.30" from the bottom end. This should allow me to get a lock washer under the head. It should also give me enough outside edge clearance still. The 1.92" outward bound distance from edge of rotor on front calipers clear with 0.39" (10mm) wheel spacers. The back I'm running only 5 mm spacers, but the outward bound distance is only 1.67". The difference between the two is 0.25". That would leave a 0.5" negative clearance difference. However there is a offset difference between 0.77" and 0.73" (difference of 0.04"), plus the face difference between 0.32" and 0.25" (difference of 0.07") which totals to 0.11" - the 0.5" = positive 0.06". Effectively the offset of the hat will go to .047", yet the with the 0.32 face the hat will still be 0.79" thick for the six bolts to mount the rotor to. The bracket will be on the other side of the stock hub mount.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

A little bit of an update. Wilwood Brakes said they don't recommend the Dynapro Narrow Radial Mount calipers on a 11" rotors. They said possibly a brake pad overlap issue and not an interference issue. Not a lot of information from them when I mentioned that the Dynapro Radial Mount calipers use the same brake pad configuration. The tech guy said ultimately if you can make them work great. He did recommend the Dynapro Radial Mount with one of their proportioning valves. I don't really want to go that way. Additionally, I'm not thrilled about trying the Narrows and then having to send them back. I did see a photo posted from Teamswift where the whole mount was designed and not just the bracket. Today I will see what is possible there and go back to looking at the Dynapro Low Profile Lug Mounts which are a heck of a deal for the price.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Front bracket:

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There were some issues with this first set of brackets. Part of the problem was the quick conversion from metric to standard. It did throw some of the measurements off. I ran into two clearance issues: one was the center of the hub, and the other was the bottom relief is not quite deep enough. The first clearance issue was solved by a couple quick passes on grind wheel, the second one however is not as easy. I need an additional 5/64" removed from the bottom of the inset. I thought I had accounted for this additional tolerance, but who knows at this point. I also have to shim the top studs more than I want to. I have already entered the new measurements into the program to solve any issue that came up. Additionally, I am also going to lighten the bracket in the center. For now I will make these ones work until I can get the next ones cut.

Notes on cut: Before I forget I wanted to document the conversion to CAM and Gcode process. The top cut you will need to extend out to get a square cut beyond the edge of the bracket. I have already converted to standard, but anyone having these made will want to ask ahead of time for what the machinist wants. Very helpful to give your machinist a 3D drawing print out with all the measurements on it. Make sure you write down the drill bit size for tapping to 3/8-16 and 12x1.25. It is also helpful to have all your start corners be the same corner. To make the bracket you will only need the front and the top dxf files.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

The front brackets went back to machinist to fix clearance issue. I took apart the rear brake mount and made some detailed drawings which was easy since I could lay the part down on graph paper and trace it. This part should be easy to make sense I can pick up 6 mm just by having a straight bracket. There is plenty of clearance to work in both directions. If I start with one inch thick stock of aluminum the clearance I need should be easy to get, and I get to make the bracket smaller (shorter).
swift12
Posts: 956
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Location: NZ

be great to see the finished product
=D>
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Finished front images:

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I will have to eventually sand and clear the wheels.
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The good news is I can shim this one millimeter in. This will add to my clearance overall which is right at the limit of .08. I could not find a good source for a 12 mm shim washer. I'm thinking I will take my 3/8 washer and drill the inside out to 12 mm. What the pictures don't show too well is that it is only the very outer edge where the clearance is tight. Everything is free rotating with absolutely no rubbing. I'll take another look after shimming the bracket 1 mm. I could also put a 1 mm shim spacer on top of the wheel spacer to bring the wheel out 1 mm. I wasn't really trying to show the calipers off in this fashion, but I could not have put them out there literally any closer.

I did not actually hook up the brake lines since I still need to get the data for the stopping distance on the stock setup. Side note the Dynapro design is freaking awesome as far as brake pad install. No more fighting to get out and in a brake pad. There is also nine different coefficient grades of pads for these calipers. I have on the street grade BP-10 Smart Pad.

I have the rear brake mount design underway also to fit the Dynapro Low Profile Lug mount calipers which was the better caliper for what I wanted and supports a 11" rotor. I am having to learn a little bit more about Freecad to sketch and extrude a sketch. Despite what I said above the rear mount will be slightly longer, but a wider spread. However, it will be lighter by probably a pound or two since it will be aluminum.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I called K-sport today for their dual piston hydraulic hand brake. It is indeed inline which means that it will work with our front left, rear right and front right, rear left setup. However, the unit is quite expensive and on top of that the line installation kit is over $100 for each side. Additionally, it can not be used horizontally, and there is no emergency brake lock. Parking would rely on leaving it in gear. I don't believe there is room to leave both parking brake and hydraulic brake. The good is that the unit does not use separate reservoir, and the piston are 3/4 which will mean that they can lock the rears with more clamping force than the stock master cylinder even if the stock emergency brake was hydraulic. I did also get the in and out threads for unit. In is 7/16-20 UNF, and out is 3/8-24 UNC. What I will try to find is the right fitting to slip on hard steel lines. There is no advantage and no need to having a flex line where I want to connect it. This should save me at least $100.

I'm half way done with the Freecad file for the rear mount:

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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Front setup is installed and working with no clearance issues. I did grind down the two center bolts on the outside edge to give me a .08 clearance. I'm attaching more updated files for the rear mounts.

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gtpswift
Posts: 1641
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Location: Australia

good looking brackets both front and rear. Id seriously consider loosing the washer spacers to give more wheel clearance. rule of thumb you want to finger width of clearance. With unknown second hand wheels they may flex enough to clash. Plus where does the wheel balance go if needed on the outside of the rim?
298 is nice but 285 fits safer
Justyfrontbrakes.JPG

Cheers,

GTP
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I will be able to pick up 1mm more of space from a bracket correction. The weight will have to go in a tiny bit instead of sitting on the edge. I don't think it will effect the balance. Wilwood is the one that listed the .08 as the minimum clearance. I have no interference issues with the strongest side force I could probably put on the wheel. For those who want more clearance all they have to do is turn the bracket around and mount it from the other side. They would then go with 1.22 offset hat and simply use a spacer to bring it into alignment. I can always increase the size of wheel spacer by a couple millimeters. How those wheel are built it is only the 1mm edge that is close. The backside of the caliper is over 1/2" clearance. The wheels are also hub centered which will minimize any wobble.
answer
Posts: 189
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: NSW
Location: NSW

I need these brakes on my gti. Looks awesome mate and love the choice of wheels
Beat em in2 submission
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

answer wrote:I need these brakes on my gti. Looks awesome mate and love the choice of wheels
Thanks. The rears setup is not too far off.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Rear mounts files and my updated front ones are with my machinist. I will order one 11" disc and one caliper in so I'm ready to test fit when the mount is done. I revised the mount holes so the rear caliper will be facing forward, and it will allow me to mount a spot caliper on top which will best match the pathway of the stock emergency brake cable. It will be a bit before I finish everything else off. I will still need to design the spot caliper bracket which should be easier sense it is only mounting to the two top holes. Later on I will purchase the dual cylinder hand brake. I will have to build a mount plate to accomodate both the stock hand brake and the hydraulic handbrake.

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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I'm waiting on the rear mount. I did get one of the 11" rear disc and one rear Dynapro Lug Mount Low Profile Caliper. Below is the rear Wilwood caliper I am using. This will mount on the front quadrant and the spot caliper will be in the stock position above. I still haven't made the bracket for the spot caliper. I did write a complete brake thread on this whole project and will post it up here with dxf files and math at data to go along.

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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

A little update, the Wilwood 171-8975 6x6.25 hats fit our rear and front hub spindles. These come as blanks, and need to have the center bore drilled out to 64 mm, the stud holes drilled to a little over .5, and the fastening holes drilled. Wilwood has these listed as having an inside diameter of 5.10". Our 5.25" spindles will fit without lathing out anything to the inside diameter. I had posted above, but never answered this question definitively. It is unfortunate they they have these hat listed without a more accurate listing of the specifications. The hats are quite light when they are all drilled out at 1.4 lbs a piece.
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pictureshowman
Posts: 1505
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Location: Bunya QLD 4055

What is the weight of the front disc assembly with the callipers and spacers added? Just trying to compare apples with apples. The same for the rear assembly but I suspect there will be a real difference there with the deletion of hand brake cables and handbrake actuator.
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

pictureshowman wrote:What is the weight of the front disc assembly with the callipers and spacers added? Just trying to compare apples with apples. The same for the rear assembly but I suspect there will be a real difference there with the deletion of hand brake cables and handbrake actuator.

I will have to get back to you on the total stock weight.

Stock setup
One piece rotor and hat stock front for GT: 9.5lbs ?Not entirely sure on weight
One piece rotor and hat stock rear for GT: 8.5lbs
Brake caliper without pads stock front for GT (includes bracket + bolts): ? I will have to weigh these but I am guessing 6 to 8 lbs.
total weight: 9.5 +6 to 8lbs = 15.5 to 17.5 lbs

My setup:
Front Hat: 1.7lbs - the hole cutouts- bore diameter = 1.4lbs
Front 11.75" x 0.80" Rotor with bolts: 8lbs + 0.4lbs = 8.4lbs
Front Brake Bracket (aluminum) with studs, shims, nuts and bolts wtih lock washer and flat washer: 1.1 to 1.2lbs
Front calipers without pads: 4.1 lbs
Total weight: 15.1 lbs

Weight savings 1.4lbs to 3.4 lbs. Remember though this is for an increase from 250 mm rotors to 298 mm rotors.

The 11" SRP rotors are 7.7lbs + .3lbs for bolts (6 vs 8 bolts). The rear calipers Forged Dynapro lug mount low profile calipers post above are only 3.6lbs. I am using these for street daily driving and will retain my emergency brake with mech spot calipers which are 1.7lbs with pads. The total weight for the calipers in the rear 5.3lbs, which is still quite a bit lighter than the stock rear setup.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Still waiting on the brake parts, and sense all I have time for is work I can wait. However, I am starting to purchase parts for the turbo system and am looking at a few different contenders. Remember this car is my daily driver, and I'm not looking to go over 200 whp. One of the contenders is a Turbonetics T3 50 ball bearing unit. I have ran the top end cfm numbers on the compressor chart at 216 cfm.

(79.3 x 6500 rpm x 0.5 x 1.01)/1728 = 150 cfm
With different chip or standalone: (79.3 x 8500 rpm x 0.5 x 1.01) / 1728 =197 cfm
I ran the numbers again at 8500 which is where I imagine I don't want to run past all that often irregardless of how well I have the engine rebuilt. I did bump the volumetric efficiency for what I think a different cam grind would provide.
(79.3 x 8500 x 0.5 x 1.11 % / 1728 = 216 cfm ) this would be the high side of what I would run a compressor map for matching a turbo. 216 cfm is just under 18 lbs per minute.

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The fit on the compressor map is quite nice.

Turbonetics:
T3-50 CAST part # 20268T compressor: inducer: 1.674" (42.5mm) exducer: 2.367" (60mm) 3" 2.00" 20374-3 T3
It uses an F1-49 turbine which has an exducer of 1.929" (49 mm). The inducer is 2.320" (58.9mm) 69 Trim
There are multiple A/R for the turbine .48, .63, .65, and .85

Anyone running this unit?
Anyone know if this unit comes water-cooled? I'll try calling them tomorrow.
Anyone have some feedback between running a .48 or .63 turbine housing?
Anyone have a recommendation for another turbo?
Any other feedback would be welcome.

I do have a IHI RBH5 vj11 Mazda/Ford turbo on hand, but I don't really want to run it.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Hopefully, this Friday or Saturday the rear brake brackets will be cut out and I can at least see how everything fits. In the meantime my front brake setup saved my bacon on the Freeway when someone merged into my lane when I was going 70 and he was going 15. Worth every dollar.

I designed a conversion adapter to run from my t3 flange ram manifold that I am making to the IHI Mazda/Ford RBH5 vj11 flange. I also bought a nice merge collector to save me some money making one. I'll dam the wastegate port until I upgrade to a non-wastegate turbo.
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I also finally got rid of the stock intake manifold accordion style rubber coupler.
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I also routed to a catch can this way, but I think it needs bigger lines. The idle is running rough. Please chime in if this is not the right way to run the lines in and out to a catch can.
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GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

photo of the rear brake setup:

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A close up:
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Howsie13
Posts: 469
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:30 am
Location: Napier

Slick!
A Kiwi learning to fly in a Mk1.
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pictureshowman
Posts: 1505
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Location: Bunya QLD 4055

Why the Airbags?
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

They came with the car when I bought it. It is useful if I'm hauling extra weight. I really need to roll my rear fender slightly. I get a little rub on the outside edge if I don't have a little bit of air in the bags if I'm cornering hard. I just have H&R Springs (1.4" drop from stock) with newer KYB struts and the rear drops to far down.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

Howsie13 wrote:Slick!
Thank you.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

I'm finally getting around to pulling the engine and boring out to 75 mm YCP Vitara pistons with NPR rings. Hopefully, I have everything I need on hand. Of course the pistons came with no information for measuring diameter and for ring gaping. I found some info online for both, but not the manufacture directions. I going for 200 hp and most of the literature says .01 mm PTW for every 100 hp which means I should run a PTW of .02 mm. Anyone have the measuring height, and ring gap listing for top, 2nd, and oil rings?
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Howsie13
Posts: 469
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:30 am
Location: Napier

Have a read through Zuboos thread.
A Kiwi learning to fly in a Mk1.
swift12
Posts: 956
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Location: NZ

I killed a YCP piston. RING GAP TOO TIGHT AT 12 thou on the top ring. Broken ring lands. But if you are turbo you won’t be pulling the revs I guess.
Now I’m getting forged pistons....the top ring will be 16 thou....bottom 18 thou....yes sounds a lot but that is what’s needed. Do the standard 3 thou per inch of bore at your peril. I ran 2 thou ptw clearance....but it was measured at 2.5 thou after the ring issue. With forged I believe they will be 4 or 5 thou.
GT4LIFE
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:27 pm
Location: Washington State

swift12 wrote:I killed a YCP piston. RING GAP TOO TIGHT AT 12 thou on the top ring. Broken ring lands. But if you are turbo you won’t be pulling the revs I guess.
Now I’m getting forged pistons....the top ring will be 16 thou....bottom 18 thou....yes sounds a lot but that is what’s needed. Do the standard 3 thou per inch of bore at your peril. I ran 2 thou ptw clearance....but it was measured at 2.5 thou after the ring issue. With forged I believe they will be 4 or 5 thou.
The ring gap is what I read the Honda guys are running them at 1st .017, 2nd .019, and oil .025. All these numbers are still inside the limits of what Suzuki list in the 92 Swift FSM for the stock piston ring gap which is 1st .0275, 2nd .0275, and oil .0669.

Are you saying .002" of PTW clearance? That is a lot more than the .0008" to .001" that I am planning on running. Are you talking about piston diameter to bore diameter difference of .002 which would be double the PTW?
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