It is currently Sat Apr 04, 2020 3:11 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 1297 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38 ... 65  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
There doesn’t appear to be a suitable free bolt position on the intake side Sam.

Yeah I’m in two minds about the afr controller. Might sell it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 11:52 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
Every block should have an oem knock sensor mount on the intake side between 2 & 3. On some it may not be drilled and tapped but it should still be there.

In some respects the knock sensor is a little like the lambda sensor. It's really only there to protect against variable fuel quality and that's not supposed to happen with avgas.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
ok...im not fitting the knock sensor...or the afr meter. I have an issue with the trigger for the crank...just trying to solve that and its off to the tuners. The throttle body is working well...the cam sync works...but the crank sensor is only registering two teeth per rev....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 7:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
What type is the ref sensor?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 7:27 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
the sensor was a Nissan qr25de 2.5 litre sentra one. supposed to be a hall effect with a magnet in it. a cross between a full hall effect and a reluctor....this gives you 10 times the sensitivity of the other types....well it don't work with my trigger wheel. and because the trigger wheel is attached to the crank and balanced etc....im just going to find a sensor that will work with my wheel. we are going to a straight reluctor sensor. so the 5 volt line won't be used. just the sensor ground and the signal plus a pull up resistor. whoa im starting to talk like a tech Bit$h.... :P 8-[

Adam and Simon have been awesome at Link. Adam was in my laptop tonight on team viewer tweaking everything. The throttle body is ready to rock and roll and has awesome tracking. he even set a starting map for my engine. The sync in the dizzy is working. all other sensors work. In all honesty...adam said get the trigger on the crank working and its tuner time. nothing else needs to be done....just the trigger offset and phasing between the crank and cam sensors....base timing....go ahead and start it. probably half an hour after it hits the workshop floor at the tuners it will be warming up.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 7:40 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
Sounds like you have it sorted. If you're changing to reluctor just be careful that the sensor core is roughly the same width as the trigger wheel teeth.

Have you figured out the setup for the coils and injectors?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 5:02 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
Yes Adam is helping me select the right reluctor.

Yup I think so.
I have the ignition and injection all sequential. The peak is 4 amp and the hold 1 amp. Dead times set to a value that will work initially. Then Chris (prestige tuning) through llama engineering will tune it. These guys have had an association with Suzuki’s in off-roaders. Most of all all I’m not getting the “you should have bought a Honda crap” from them. All of the injectors and coils test in sequence with no issues.

I think if the trigger is all sorted....my only concern would be any noise I may have caused in the system creating issues. Hopefully it will be fine.

All the cranking has hammered the battery. Have to keep it charging. But I hit the accumulator before cranking....so it’s nice to have 60 psi go through the bearings while I’m cranking and I’ve only done that with the plugs out. One interesting thing is that when the pressure builds to 60 psi when it’s cold you can hear the starter slow so it obviously takes horsepower to squeeze oil through engines. That’s 10/40 oil. Also my battery has never fully charged as it’s been running so much. I really need to charge it for a full day and top it off...which means I’m probably trying to crank it with a less than happy battery.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 9:24 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
Yes, most ecu's don't like too much voltage drop. It's a really good idea to fit an Anderson connector and use an external battery for jobs like this. I have them on both my cars and just plug in an external battery if I think some cranking will be required.
Attachment:
IMG_4943.JPG
IMG_4943.JPG [ 1.08 MiB | Viewed 89 times ]


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 2:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Posts: 1465
Location: Bunya QLD 4055
Seat is out of date next year.

_________________
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 5:37 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
Bugger, I guess they’ll fail it when I enter a WRC round.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 6:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
unexpected upgrade opportunity next year sam!

Hey today I ordered a new reluctor type of crank sensor. The Link one wouldn't work well in my application due to the orientation and its size...even though the one I have bought is the same orientation it is smaller and easier to fit in.

So I have had to make a new ali mount for it. Yup its overbuilt to hell....but like Adam at Link says...most issues surrounding crank sensors apart from the wrong type of sensor is fragile mounting....any movement at all creates issues such as missed teeth and errors etc. this mount doesn't move! The upright tag on the top will eventually be a cable mount to hold the top connector...if it fits

not finished just yet. got to get the sensor tomorrow morning and test fit... then tweak things. hoping tomorrow i can report a good trigger scope on the g4.


Attachments:
IMG_5199.JPG
IMG_5199.JPG [ 213.59 KiB | Viewed 84 times ]
IMG_5197.JPG
IMG_5197.JPG [ 279.59 KiB | Viewed 87 times ]
IMG_5196.JPG
IMG_5196.JPG [ 295.16 KiB | Viewed 88 times ]
IMG_5195.JPG
IMG_5195.JPG [ 272.39 KiB | Viewed 88 times ]
IMG_5194.JPG
IMG_5194.JPG [ 261.09 KiB | Viewed 67 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 7:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
so the reluctor trigger is fitted. its now reading great! ready for tuner!


Attachments:
IMG_5207.JPG
IMG_5207.JPG [ 281.06 KiB | Viewed 79 times ]
IMG_5205.JPG
IMG_5205.JPG [ 244.47 KiB | Viewed 75 times ]
IMG_5206.JPG
IMG_5206.JPG [ 257.15 KiB | Viewed 85 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 7:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 1617
Location: Londoninium
What a bracket!
Does the steel orange bracket have a second bolt mounting to stop it rotating under vibration?
GTP


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 8:04 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
yeah mate!...a bolt goes into the oil pump on the side...hidden from view. and the big bolt on the front. you can swing on that this and nothing moves....they told me to over build this bit as its the biggest issue at times. I could have built the ali part way lighter...but the grams it would save was not worth the time... over build achieved. 8-[ :P

PLUS...it reads 36 teeth (well...35 with the missing one....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
Ah crap. This blip might be harder than first thought. Without flat shifting it won’t know wether we are upshifting or down shifting. I have fitted a brake switch too. Simon at link thinks we can do a workaround. The brake on opens the clutch switch table. When the clutch is depressed it moves into the second column to activate the e throttle. May even still be able to use the gear shift control function to trim it. Now if all this sounds like dark magic it is because I have no idea what I’m talking about but Simon did.

Anyway...
Brake switch fitted.
Shift light is also now controlled by the ecu. That will be more stable than that little knob which I keep bumping on the autometer gauge.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:56 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
Using a brake switch is a pretty common work around to figure out up vs down shift. I wouldn't be entirely convinced about the clutch switch, I'd give a press button on the gear lever a go.

Have you still got your graph from the last dyno session? It would be very interesting to overlay the final result this time around assuming it's the same dyno.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:15 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
Yeah sam it's just that it's mot in the gear shift control program. I guess we wanted to use the clutch switch as we will use the clutch anyway to help the box last. Simon says (see what I did there? 8-[ ) that we would not be able to use the gear shift control program for that setup but we may be able to use it to still trim the blip in each gear.

A switch on the gearstick would need to be pushed on every downshift is that any different to the clutch? You can get a strain gauge gear shift knob as well. Also there is a standalone blip system that works specifically for DBW systems independently of the ecu using brake clutch and rpm. But then that's what the extreme will be using anyway. The only thing is the independent system is user controlled on the fly with a delay knob and a blip mangnitude knob. That would be great for tuning on the track but it's the same in each gear....possibly we might be able to fine tune more in each gear using the trim function in the gear shift control if it's possible with our workaround.

This motor has never been on the dyno. The last motor did. It's a different tuner but it's still a dynapak. Since rebuilding we ran the same dynotune but I did two things to protect the motor.
I wound the timing back a bit and added octane booster to the fuel in order to protect the engine.

Things that have been done prior to this tune happening is obviously the rebuild. A different crank (knife edged and new rings bearings) nothing that will add more power except maybe the standard gti oil pump and the knife edged crank. The oil pump was a 1600 one so may have been harder to drive...I can't Be sure. Then of course the full ecu upgrade plus the move from a 52 mm tb to a 54mm one.

Yes it will be interesting sam to see the results. I don't mind if power reduces a little if torque increases. It may do from a perfect fuel/ ignition map.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:42 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
I guess the difference with the clutch switch is that you're also disengaging the transmission as well as asking the ecu to match the speeds. You'd effectively just be dabbing the clutch to activate the switch to it's really just another means signalling the shift to the ecu. Have a read of this : http://www.ingearperformance.com/how-to-shift-a-sequential-transmission, does and don'ts for a using a sequential dog box but H shift won't be any different.

If it's a different dynapak then chances are the differences in the dynos will be greater than the changes to the engine or electronics. You'd kind of hope that it improves the mid range even if the peak doesn't change much.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 11:47 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
interesting read Sam.
There is no two ways about it sequential would be best with the box but of course that can’t happen. So....what to do. We obviousl6 need to change fast (and I’m getting pissed off that this bloody iPad keeps substituting numbers instead of letters!)

So. Upshift is best done still by 5hrottle (rrrgh) not flat shift? Due to controlling the “cut” if we are slow or miss change the power could be back in before dog engagement.

Down shift....dab clutch for signal...leave until late in braking zone. Allow ecu to blip. And get the shifts fast...I’ll make a gate pattern as I have room to do that....to avoid miss shifts and allow us to shift as fast as possible. The distance between the gates would be about 6mm so stainless steel should hold up to the job. The upshift will be shaped to push towards the next gear and it should find its way up easily. On the downshift I the shape will allow a pull in the general direction quickly to find gear while making it harder t9 get past the “pointed” part into a lower gear....ie 5th to 2nd. Yes I know that happens....done it on the synchro box.

Sounds complicated but if you had a gate with a micro switch in each gated position...each wired to an aux channel you could have gear position information.... 8-[ when it leaves the position the blip starts until it arrives at the next position....using brake to activate.
On upshift....flatshift....cut happens when gear stick leaves gate and finishes when it arrives at the new gear....no brake means upshift....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 12:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
I don't think missing the gear is an issue. If it doesn't go through you're going to lift off. Same with downshift, if you miss the gear you'll likely clutch.

The ecu should know which gear you're in based on speed/revs so you don't need gate switches for that, it's just signalling a gear change. I think I'd try the clutch switch and see how it goes. You can always refine it if the simple approach doesn't do the job.

If you do try to make a gate, the downshift is the risk, don't think I've ever missed an upshift.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 1297 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38 ... 65  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group