So I looked at the sump and read some stuff about certain corners causing loss of oil pressure. You all know by now if you have read my build posts that I suffered defeat of engine number 1. I want to do everything I can to make sure this one doesn't go the same way.

Looking at the stock sump I see a few things.

1. there is a nice flow for the oil to drift up and leave the lower sump through the main drain points on the windage tray.

2. the windage tray looks like it is designed to hold some oil for the rods to splash some oil around....i dunno if thats right or not.

So I decided to make the sump larger to carry more oil so it could stay cooler and less likely to starve the pickup at any time. My engineer friend told me the larger amount of oil would simply get just as hot....and welding the stock sumps often leads to cracks and leaks....plus my solution was ugly. I guess thats why we have friends so they can tell us it straight.

So he has convinced me to build my own sump. The base flange is 10mm marine grade ali. the sides and bottom are 3mm alloy. it will have a sump plug and a mount point for oil temp as the sandwich plate is not modifiable for a mount point.

I could get the base water jet cut but im gonna save some coin and hack it out myself. Lachie is going to bend up the sides and base. we are going to make the sump slightly larger but the important bits are that the straighter sides will help to stop oil moving up the sump...we will also baffle under the windage tray to limit sideways movement. The ali sump can have a few fins on it too...it will transfer heat away better than the steel sump too.

now a question.... what to do about the windage tray....stick it as close to the shape and stock position
as possible? comments?

Take a look at crank-scrappers.com and the windage trays. They make them for Suzuki's but in particular take a look at the 4AGE trays ( they're notorious for surge ). The common designs are a horizontal two layer setup. They're using screen for the top layer as they reckon that helps capture oil droplets. Sounds good in theory.

I'm I remembering correctly that the difference in spacing between the new swift caliper mounts and the GTi was 7mm?

thanks sam....yes it was either 7 or 8mm...either way you can soak up 1mm with the pads...

Im looking at the sump designs right now.
it seems that a windage tray and a square covering the pickup size with 4 moveable surge doors on the bottom would work well. open anytime except for when closed by surging oil.

I have my mate on the job. I have made the base today after my mill motor stopped today due to the starter box....they wanted $500 for a starter box, overloads and an isolation switch! so I got my old single phase motor out and converted it.....

Lachie will fold the ali and weld it all up..but we have to design it first....I think the windage tray is important so will pay close attention to it.

today my son talked me out of the digital dash...just too much coin....we need helmets instead. Ill use the analogue gauges but put the oil temp sensor and oil pressure sensor in for the ECU to read.

The 1300 awd cultus sump is larger than the rest and holds about an extra ltr. If you can find one.

I’m going the whole hog on this Ali sump. It will have protrusions at the bottom and trap doors. Probably an extra .5 to .7 litres. I run a cooler and accusump so I’m running close to 5 litres now.

I’ll blog the sump build....hope it goes well!

Here's another design to ponder : https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4age7age-baffled-sump/. I wouldn't go bigger than 5l. Making it shallower and wider ( like this 4AGE one ) is probably the go.

That looks the go Sam. Definitely not deeper. I read it’s better to keep the pickup between 3/8 to 1/2” from bottom

Well it’s call month and I’m busy flying friggin aeroplanes. Don’t people realise I’m trying to finish my car?

Lachie talked me out of dicking with the sump until I have it going and Nick talked me out of a swanky dash.
Typical Glenn tangent averted....back on track.

Finish wiring wiper and dash when I get home tomorrow. Nick and I got the fuel tank removed and drained...went to replace the wires for the sender, pump and earth. They are all 1989 and small compared to the wire the auto electrician supplied for the pump. Found out they are crimped on and not easily changed except the earth. Careful prying and a lot of stuffing about and all three wires now replaced....semi crimped but also well soldered on then heatshrinked and captured in position so the solder won’t crack. Tank refitted....the car officially has no 1989 wires left in it. Fitted the main you beauty earth to the block and firewall....also have a secondary earth from box to chassis...there is no way (on earth...lol) this thing will suffer earth issues. All chassis points use new bolts and paint sanded away...then covered with sealer once fitted. The only single earth point is the battery to chassis but that is chunky cable into a seatbelt mount with the body filed flat in the area and a big washer above the hefty terminal. Yes...I have chased earth issues in cars before and they SUCK!

Have got LED tail lights to fit.

Wipers. One wiper modded to run most of windscreen...one speed...two relays which allows me to park the wipers...one relay runs the power to the full speed terminal....when switched off by the switch the power is removed from that full speed terminal and because power is supplied to the ignition switched terminal the second relay using terminal 87A turns off too but in doing so connects the two blue wires causing the park position to operate. If I sound excited by this I am because me and electrickery ain’t the best of friends all the time.

Bought a Honeywell oil pressure sender specifically for the ecu to read and I can set up protections from that. Just have to tee it into the oil pressure remote sender block.

Check engine LED light to fit. Will operate for

1. Lower than expected oil pressure at any time within set parameters
2. Water temp higher than 95 degrees
3. In the future with the new sump higher oil temp than expected
4. Miss fires
5. Low ecu voltage
6. Anything else you guys list here

Lachie and I am going to work on the sump on the side...have some great ideas....it will be a custom windage tray, box on a 45 degree angle with 4 trap doors...extended a little front and back plus some anti slosh bars. It will have a fitting for the temp sender too. I know that should be in the sandwich plate but no room....so it will just be a baseline to monitor changes with.

There will be a charge light too...small LED just to let us know if the alternator stops working...without it the battery won’t last long with the EPAS going.

Welcome back from the hole Alice!

Set the engine protection to cut the revs if it falls out of range. That'll get your attention far quicker than the light.

thanks Sam. it really sucks I have to join in another ground wire and 5Volt wire for the oil pressure sender. I don't know if I should just tee into the 5 volt wire and sensor ground or cut off the end and start again with all cables in the one point as they are now using a proper crimp. you know...one of those barrel type joiners.

To day I got the wipers going using two relays so i could use the park function.
also I got the fuel pump all connected up.
tidied up the wires under the dash although it still looks a bit messy...just too bloody hard to make it look all tidy...oh well...long as it works.
I rerouted the temp wire and a sensor ground from the front of the car around the back so when the new sump is on I can measure oil temp.

I fitted all the relays and tested by grounding the wires in the end of the plugs to the ECU. The radiator fan works. the fuel pump works. The accessory bus works. The wipers, desist fan, rain light and brake lights all work. The starter relay works the starter solenoid. The EPAS works.

Tomorrow I test the voltage reading to the connector of the ECU before plugging it in...I will check for correct voltage at the main red wire and the loom "B" E throttle supply. Once thats ok...Ill liven up the ECU, put the unlock code in....and go through the initial setup.

Sounds like it's nearly there. Does it have a date with the tuner yet?

so today I tweaked the windscreen wiper by lengthening the arm on the motor by 2.7mm. That was enough to give the one wiper the last bit of wipe and ability to park in the normal position. amazing it took so little to make about 15 degrees worth of difference.

Got a couple of LED lights. One blue one for the alternator light ....(bit bloody bright!) and the other one an orange one for a check engine light. Thats just the right brightness.

Biggest job was figuring out the fuel gauge...the gauge I bought is not calibrated for the sender unit and no amount of resisters will help...I'd need a different calibrated gauge and none of the other gauges suit so I removed the gauge from the original dash...got the actual sender unit out of it and with much twittering about modded the equus gauge so it reads properly. unfortunately...F was E and vice versa....so I had to tweak that with a sharpie. at least we will have some idea of the fuel level.

well it lives....the ecu that is. no magic smoke let out...phew.
Now I have to find that initial setup for dummies.
I unplugged the electronic throttle body until get the ecu set up.

modded the oil pressure block...now has a honeywell sensor for the ECU in it. also wired in my AFR meter. fixed the oil pressure light that didn't work...I basically had the earth running around a loop with no power to it...DUH.
Fitted the dash.

Now initial setup and then find a tuner.

It is always a great thing after completing some electrikery stuff that Puff the Magic Dragon does not show himself.

haha Michael...yeah...I blinked and reeled back a bit when i hit the ignition switch the first time.

so I have absolutely hammered Adam and Simon at Link support and they have been fantastic...I feel like a real dunce chatting with them over and over. so at this stage everything is coming together nicely. I wired up the oil pressure sensor and while I was at it i threw in a couple more wires for a knock sensor in case I ever want to fit one.

I have played with some e throttle settings but i get error codes as I have the relay out for the aux 9/10 so it shows under voltage...this is due to the throttle body not being set up yet and protecting it from snapping open or closed and blowing fuses. Ill unplug the throttle body tomorrow...liven up the relay...set up the fps first...then do a manual setup of the throttle body...then liven it up....

Hi Sam I didnt answer your q. No date as yet with Tuner....just got to stop flying for a bit and finish the last few set up bits on the ecu. Tb, cas and cam angle sensor.

I bought an innovate lambda controller and a Bosch knock sensor. Wether either will get used or help I dunno. The knock sensor is easy to fit but will need to go behind the exhaust manifold as there is a mount there in the middle of the block that is unused. I can use a bit of the heat shield wire cover from jay car for the wires. I went online and got a rough idea of the noise signature of a 4 cyl with 74mm pistons. 7.7
It won’t be controlling....only monitoring.

The lambda sensor. Mmmmm.....after a lot of reading...I don’t know wether it would be a help or hindrance. Simon at link says three ways to run it. Leave it on all the time controlling...(good for a road car but sensor failure means limp mode if set up or safe fuel...ie too rich)

Take it off after tuning...well the tuner has all this crap so what use would that be?

Leave it on the car....powered of course or the sensor dies much quicker than normal and just monitor AFR from the laptop at days end. Even then if you don’t recalibrate the sensor after every race day you may see a change in figures....so you’d get concerned the tune is going off for some reason rather than just a sensor issue.

Comments?

Both are easy to fit....the knock has wires at the engine already.

Wire the lambda up to an AFR gauge with bling lights on the dash for more disco effect

Hey Michael but I couldn’t bust out my best staying alive moves when belted in the car

Ideally the knock sensor would be on the intake side of the block between pots 2 & 3. It just needs a single ht bolt to mount.

I guess I'm not convinced about the valve of the lambda sensor. The lead in avgas will mean limit sensor life and, as you say, the tuner will use one when tuning. In theory once it's tuned that should be that unless you change something and then it's back on the dyno anyway.