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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 6:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
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Location: NZ
No from the USA! 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:20 am 
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Location: Amberley
That's surprising, I've never really looked at the pricing outside NZ, just assumed that by the time you paid shipping, GST and entry costs that it wouldn't stack up. What are they worth in the US?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 10:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
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Location: Bunya QLD 4055
Don't forget that he is a Flyboi.

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If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 487
Location: NZ
Picture showman got it in one. TBH it would not have saved me a lot over NZ if I paid GST. I declare and it's up to the officer in charge to decide what to do...a lot of the time they wave us through....to busy to collect it I guess. No shipping or entry costs. Over the extreme, loom A and loom b plug....about $400 saved. The gst would have been around $300 so still would have saved but not worth it for the muck around.....the great thing is you still get support from NZ link!

I have bought some electrical stuff to rewire the Car. It was important it's not a mess. All the cars wiring is gone. As far as wipers I'll run one wiper in the middle of the windscreen at full speed only....just don't know how I can make it park. I have the radiator Fan. The starter solenoid. And a couple of sensors and that's about it under the bonnet for "the stuff that does not directly connect to the ECU" (also some 12v supply wires that don't come from the ECU direct like the injector ones etc)

I have a bussmann rtmr and metripak 280 connectors. The nice thing about the system is you route one red cable to the unit and the internal buss bar links all 10 fuses. Plus you put five micro relays in the unit. I was going to use the under hood box but it's big, ugly and just pox.
I will shorten the A loom to the minimum for each connection as per the tuners recommendation. I have proper high heat cable to make up the b loom with only the wires needed. I have an 80 amp fuseable link....(60 would have been better I guess). Remaining wire will link all switches etc to the relays. I'm using 12 gauge from the fuse to the relay and then to the accessory...it's proper automotive TXL wire and will handle constant 20 AMPS. As no fuses are bigger than 20 amps I guess that will be fine.

Highest current draw unknown....I'm guessing the radiator fan, wiper and fuel pump will be greatest. Each will have their own relay. There is a main relay and an E throttle relay and an ignition relay. One will need to be outside the box....that will be the wiper relay. The electric power steer has its own relay built in.

One major cable goes to the starter. I use the earth return through the chassis. I have two earths on the motor. I'll probably put two on the neg side of the battery too.
A 6 gauge wire powers everything else through the bussmann. Relays are actuated by either 18 to 22 gauge wire....depends what's on the loom etc.

I'm aiming for a tidy install....the rats nest that came out was a nightmare.
I'm going to replace the wire to the fuel pump....only because of age....and poss voltage drop.

Looking forward to this job!


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:09 am 
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Location: NZ
Hey guys question. Last two days on this London trip. Researching the pin outs for my wiring job.

I have info on the CAS Nissan sensor. I have the Toyota Yaris COP pin outs. I'm good with the throttle body and accelerator.

I have a Bosch MAP sensor....just like nzefi has. Also I'd like to know if the single tooth cam sync I have made is dependant on polarity. It's the stock cam sensor with all but one tooth taken off at TDC no.1. Also I have an AC delco IAT sensor....can anyone tell me if the IAT is polarity sensitive? I dunno if it needs power...hard to find out wether 5,8 or 12 volts. I think I can find the pin outs from Dave at nzefi for the map sensor. Sorry seems like dumb questions but I'm not the worlds best electrician so I want to make sure I get the hook ups right.

If I run the relay for the radiator fan like the others which are negatively switched (because pin 86 is live from the Bussmann bus) then all I have to do is hook the thermo switch in the pin 85 to ground? When it heats up it completes the circuit and switches the relay on?

Should I even bother with the stock OXY sensor or blank the hole? We will likely run no where near stoic except at idle? (Because it's narrow band)

Last one....anyone know how I can run the wiper motor straight off a relay at one speed (full) but still be able to park it? I really have no idea how to achieve it. Right now I have an ugly unit that used to be in the column to run the wipers.

Cheers g


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 8:30 am 
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Location: Amberley
The oem cas will have 3 wires in the connector, black, red and green. Black goes to earth, red is cas+ to the ecu and green is cas- to the ecu.

Don't know for sure about the Delco IAT but I expect the polarity won't matter, that's certainly the case with the Bosch equivalent. You'd expect it to be 5v.

With the fan if you want it switched low side then you'd wire relay 30 to a fused supply, 87 to your fan, 85 + (ignition) and 86 to ecu. Not sure what you mean with the thermo switch as the ecu will control the fan probably on aux 2 depending on what else you have connected.

I'd just install a bung in place of the o2 sensor.

With the wiper motor the oem plug will have 4 wires and an earth, black is earth, +12 to blue is low speed, blue/red is high speed, yellow/back is + supply and blue white park. Yellow/black should be +12 with ignition, for low speed switch yellow black to blue, for high speed switch yellow black to blue red, to park switch blue white to blue ( yellow black will still have 12+ and a switch in the motor will supply 12+ to blue white ). Take a look at 8-25 in the manual for a good diagram.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:37 pm 
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Location: NZ
Hey Sam...so the gti has two temp sensors right? One controls the radiator fan called the thermo switch? And the other is the WTS for the ecu. So I can ignore the thermo switch and just use the WTS SENSOR TO switch the relay on using an aux channel on the ecu to control the radiator fan?

ok so I'm just sitting here wondering if I am confused? Does the WTS sensor already control that ?
I have a temp sensor, a WTS for the ecu and another one I thought controlled the fan. I'm not home so I can't look at it.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:12 pm 
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It has three really, WTS for ecu, thermo fan switch and the temp gauge sender. They'll all together around the area of the thermostat housing.

You could continue to use the thermo switch as it stands but the ecu also has the ability to switch the fan based on data from the WTS. The advantage of using the ecu is that you can program/configure when it cuts in.

Depending on what you're doing for a dash I guess there's also the argument that you don't need the temp sender either. If you're displaying CAN data from the ecu then the WTS data can be displayed.

If you're not using a CAN dash then I guess having a separate temp sender does at least give you a backup in case the WTS is not configured correctly in the ecu.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:24 am 
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Location: NZ
That's perfect then thanks Sam. I had an issue with the thermo switch where the cable into it was broken...it seemed difficult to find a plug replacement so I rebuilt the plug...then ended up changing the thermo switch too. But I had to use two small crimp on plugs and silicone them into the sensor which was not very elegant....so I'll blank that hole now....replace the WTS sensor to a Bosch one (ordered anyway) which has a known calibration plus a nice new plug to go onto the ecu wires and use the ecu to earth the relay to switch it on through an aux channel at 92 degrees? A much better solution.

Yes I have a separate sensor as a back up analogue instrument as I don't have a digital dash. That's what I probably should have done I guess. I have two forms of oil pressure (light and gauge) and I have a third take off point on my remote oil sender setup. I could put a sensor in there that would work with the ECU? It would be nice to auto shut down if the oil pressure went below say 20 psi when above 3000 rpm....auto shutdown if the water temp gets too high too?

Might be over thinking it a bit but I guess if it's available in this bit of electrickery then why not use it.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:28 am 
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Location: Amberley
I have a Dash 2 Pro, it wouldn't be my first pick for a dash but it's what the car came with. It does make for a neat and tidy look and works pretty well. What's not so good is trying to wire all the separate inputs to the dash. If I replace my ecu I'll ditch all that and just wire the inputs to the ecu and then connect the dash with a CAN cable.

Even if you're not going to install a CAN dash now I think it would be a good idea to feed everything to the ecu so that at a later date all you need to do is to install the dash and connect the CAN cable. A bit of future proofing I guess. If it was me I'd probably run out of patience trying to build an analogue replacement for the oem dash, with the duplication of inputs, and part with the cash for a dash or gps logger dash.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
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Location: Bunya QLD 4055
What he said.

_________________
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:45 pm 
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Location: NZ
cheers.


hey how important is it to have the CAS run as short as possible? I have mounted the Link computer away from most noise (like the EPAS unit etc) but the CAS run is in the opposite corner of the engine bay...maybe a 2 metre run?

If i mount the link computer over by the drivers side where the original one mounts...

1. its around a lot more noise
2. its a lot harder to access
3. all the other runs like to the sync and the coils, injectors etc...will be longer and pass right by the EPAS unit among other things.

any comments?

sorry bad pics today...i think the 5 year old apple 5S is dying.
the tuner said...cut all wires to ensure shortest runs possible.
cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 5:35 pm 
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Location: Amberley
I guess the cables are shielded but it still make sense to avoid any source of noise if you can. My ecu sits on the tunnel in front of the gear shifter. It's not a bad spot for access and length of cables.
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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 487
Location: NZ
Thanks Sam. I have got big cables in the tunnel area plus the bussmann relay and fuse holder...plus it's close to the EPAS system....I guess I should stick with what I have done and hope it's all fine...just wondered what others had done...cheers! :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:29 am 
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Location: Londoninium
My ECU sits above the shifter cables above the trans tunnel. the Shielded wires run the short route through the firewall with all the otherwires, across to the engine with the loom wires then over the rocker cover/cam cover junction then down to the Crank angle sensor. I purchased the most expensive shielded stuff I could as I had to repair the ECU CAS lead. when I first started it it was rough as guts. the noise trace was so bad...bought more cable mor grafting ran it out the window, then into the engine bay from the front grille to eliminate noise!. no better! checked and rechecked the wiring and the shielding in particular as it should only be grounded at one end. all was perfect!.
Discovered it was the wrong type of sensor on the end of the cable! swapped sensor types and perfect strong clean signal. even unshielded it was fine. So dont believe everything the A tuner says!
Biggest pain was grafting the shielded cables with neat tidy and small joins...never fun.

GTP


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 487
Location: NZ
thanks GTP swift.

Luckily I have the Link looms so they have shielded wires for the crank and sync signals...I was wondering where to route them but i think Ill just put them in some braided sleeving and then in some of that spilt tubing to protect them from all the crud and run them across the rocker cover like you. I have the e throttle wires to run like that as well as the injector and coil wires...I guess I can run them all together seeing as they all come out of the same looms together but just keep the main "car" ones separate....ie...fan, starter, EPAS etc etc..


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:44 am 
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Location: Amberley
On my car the cabling for the injectors, TPS, CAS and WTS comes in beside the ITB at #1 and runs along the fuel rail with connectors for each injector and then connectors at the end for the TPS, CAS and WTS. It's in heat shrink so effectively forms a sealed loom with the smaller diameter leads running back inside the main loom which is also in heat shrink. I'm guessing you could do something similar and include the COP connectors. My one looks like this:
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The crank sensor cable runs around the right hand inner guard, under the front right engine mount and then up the oil cooler line to the sensor mount. It's also in heat shrink and clipped to the panels involved.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 12:14 pm 
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Location: NZ
Thanks Sam that’s great. Takes time doing this doesn’t it!


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 6:35 pm 
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Location: NZ
been busy with other things but got some done on the car.

the accusump now works from inside the car...shortened the morse cable I found for it....works very easily...in the pic its not in its final place ....pic on that soon.

I mounted the starter box so the driver could reach it and took it off the roof....shorter electrical runs...easier to see etc....had to step it out as the driver sits quite a bit further back.

also put a new little box in for the battery start switch....left it in that position as it means a shorter run of heavy cable from the battery in the boot area.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 487
Location: NZ
Accusump cable shortened and all done.
Tidied up radiator fan.
Fixed throttle stop for new throttle.
Adjusted and fitted new radiator hoses....yup....Not the prettiest but with that radiator standard hides don't fit (the two front ones) as I have found out. Functional though.
Wiring tomorrow.
Damn I'm slow 8-[


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