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 Post subject: Re: Swift GTi Tarmac Rally Car
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:33 am 

Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 956
Location: NZ
ok I have Russell fittings and they are definitely VITON seals....perhaps sitting dry is no good for them?
I would have thought AVGAS is not hard on seals as its just extra octane/lead. I guess Ill find out soon.
The fittings are meant for fuel pumps, fuel firewall fixings etc etc as well as dry sumps and the like.

Thanks for the shots of the exhaust Sam. Its quite hard to get the pipes just right....and then match the lengths .....slow and steady I guess. I think I might have to try and go the suzukird type they don't make anymore....only thing is the firing order will mean the collector will get pulses one after the other in an anticlockwise direction. because I have the factory made merge collector with a pyramid centre to stop pulse back flow the clockwise pulses might swirl the air going out of the collector....its just easier to make it that way. I want to avoid that wrap unless you can point me to a wrap that doesn't leave fine bits of glass fibres floating all around the engine bay! ceramic coated may be best....the no. 3 pipe will come within 2 inches of the oil cooler.

 Post subject: Re: Swift GTi Tarmac Rally Car
PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 443
Location: Cust NZ
I'm looking at building up another motor so I'm trying to sort out a few problems areas. One of those is the oil pump. Currently I run a rev limit of 7900 and with the cams it's running there's no point going beyond that. For the next engine I want to run to about 9500 rpm. So will the oil pump handle that ok? I suspect the answer is no.

I also have a 4AGE powered AE86 and the 4AGE's have a bad rep for oil pump failures. Some of this by design. Over the years Toyota have used 3 oil pump designs in these engines. The first one was the worst with the square toothed oil pump gears cracking if rev'd hard. The second design is basically the same as a G13B pump with rounded gears but smaller and the third is internally the same as a G13B pump. I guess that's good news if you're building a G13B as the oil pump will have the same capacity as a 4AGE 20v pump. The bad news is that in 4AGE's these still crack if run above 8k on a regular basis. It's hard to see the outcome being any different in a G13B.

In the 4AGE world you can solve this by just sending lots of money. Either you dry sump for 4k and do away the pump or you run billet gears in the oil pump for $500. For the G13B it seems we pretty much have the same options, either fit Toda billet oil pump gears from a 4AGE to a G13B pump body and port the pump or build a dry sump system. I guess there's also the hybrid option using a belt driven scavenging pump and the G13B pump as the pressure pump.

A dry sump system would involve having to make a few one off parts such as the oil pan, pump mounting bracket and a pump drive from the crank pulley. The drive probably isn't too hard as it can mount to the bolts retaining the pulley and be re-purposed from one for another engine. The rest of the dry sump system really just requires money spent. I guess that's the best ( most power ) option but also the most expensive.

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