thanks [map of] tassie ,
the 370cca wasn't turning over the starter motor to well [ probably because of distance] but the 815cca made a huge difference . just ordered the big optima batt. charger ,cost more than the battery .

down side for the battery is , 99% lead and weighs a tonne. with my huge weight all on right hand side of the car i will be rolling it when i turn left.

should of got the deep cycle yellow optima instead for the 240volt inverter but i wanted to keep it [hand on dick] colour matched.

just arrived in the post from the u.s a dual friction centreforce clutch , emailed centreforce for hp rating, no answer ,advertised good for turbo and clamping force is increased through revs by the counter weights but claiming it has a easier clutch feel than factory.

has anybody used this clutch and or tell me hp rating ?

scored some poly engine mounts to suit the [150kw aim] turbo engine build .thanks to steve[budgetracer] for the poly mounts . recommended the 70 duro for my kw output .

Still getting parts together for the turbo spec enginè build race bearings ,520cc injectors, .5 oversize s.s exhaust valves to match my existing inlet ss valves and arp mains and head bolts

Any updates ? Hows the build going ?

not much progress cami man. getting s**t together 4 take 2 turbo specific build . pull motor ,block bored ,honed and deck faced 4 75mm honda turbo pistons. head done with .5 e&i oversize ss valves, 2 1/4 ss tubing to replace ugly clamps and silicon joiners.

Looks sweet , you can not rush perfection

no cami, its going slow due to cash flow but your theory sounds better.

got the sump and tigger wheel but not sure on the sensor as there are two types of tigger wheels. can anybody give me the part no. for this sensor for this trigger wheel???

fresh from the machine shop. had the block machined to suit the renault oil squirters. this mod is a copycat from miniswifts build and looked like a very good idea as the block casing shows a attentional provision for a future suzuki mod. this mod will help to keep the bottom the piston cool ,a plus for the higher temps of a turbo build . on the stock conrods the oil lube hole is there to lube the thrust side of the piston and cylinder. with my new forged conrods there is no lube hole, the oil squirter mod which will take its place and doing a much better job lubricating . also shouldn't affect oil pressure.
i will press them in after i assemble the engine to make sure they are all aimed at the bottom of the piston on the down stroke. hope it works

Nice, who in Adelaide did your machining.
GTP

northern machining service holdenhill , good price, god job

Hey mate is there a part number on the ARP head studs?

GTP

HI GTP ,I ORDERED THE ARP HEAD BOLTS FROM SUZUKIRD . PART NO. ON THE SITE IS SUZ-ARP 6134 . $145 usd . it only come with the studs and nuts, no washers .so I'm still looking into that. sorry i don't know the arp brand part no.
hope that helps you

NOT SURE ,ON USING WASHERS WITH THE ARP HEAD BOLTS , [MIXED OPINIONS] THE HEAD STUDS ARE LONG ENOUGH TO TAKE THE 3MM THICK ARP WASHERS . THE ORIGINAL HEAD BOLT WASHERS HAVE A 17MM OD ,10MM ID . 2MM THICK. THE CLOSEST ARP WASHERS WITH THOSE DIMENSIONS ARE 9.5 [ 3/8]ID, 17MM OD. 3MM THICK
SO I DRILL THEM OUT ON THE LATHE , COST ME 2 BRAND-NEW 10MM HHS DRILL BITS [BLUNT AFTER THE FIRST 6 WASHERS] BUT GOT THE JOB DONE

Great progress mate can’t wait to see it all in and tuned up.

That's a bit serious!

GTP