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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Got home from work a bit earlier today. Managed to do a trial fit with all under bonnet components. There's still room for the ECU on the bulkhead ;D

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Another good weekend of progress (mixed in with fettling the TVR for sale). The bulkhead is now officially full (with the ECU in place), although everything does fit nicely. The booster is now bolted in position and the front brake flexible mountings are now made and bolted to the subframe rails. All coolant pipes are now connected (including intake manifold) and the system is filled (no leaks) :D

I've got my brake pipe flaring tool so I'm all ready to make up the front system with new pipes and new unions :D

And to cap all that, there's still a bit of space under the dizzy for the coil etc :D

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Brisbane
I love the effort your putting into it. I don't want to be too negative but the ecu needs to be kept dry. There are circuit boards just inside all those gaps in the casing, a good rain storm could cause havoc. They are under the dash in a gti, hard to get to, deliberately i think.


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Quick question for you all out there. I'm starting to think about all the vacuum connections on my Mk1 manifold (which is being used with a Mk2 fuel rail and engine). Pic of Mk2 fuel rail attached. Does anyone know which vacuum port on the Mk1 manifold the FPR line connects to (see red arrow in the pic)?

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 7:54 pm 
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Location: Cessnock
I can't tell you what one specifically, but I can tell you it won't matter as long as it's coming from the manifold.. Sorry for my useless info..

Car is looking good by the way. :D

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 6:13 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:51 am
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Location: Ipswich QLD
usually Fuel Pressure Regulators just require manifold vacuum to operate, so if there is any ports on the manifold after the butterfly use them. if not just tee off another manifold vacuum line

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:47 am 
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Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
saczel wrote:
I love the effort your putting into it. I don't want to be too negative but the ecu needs to be kept dry. There are circuit boards just inside all those gaps in the casing, a good rain storm could cause havoc. They are under the dash in a gti, hard to get to, deliberately i think.


Thanks for the warning. I might have to have a rethink then. I can put the ECU under the dash in the Moke easily. Sounds like it will be a better place for it anyway.

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:48 am 
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Location: Brisbane
southy wrote:
I can't tell you what one specifically, but I can tell you it won't matter as long as it's coming from the manifold.. Sorry for my useless info..

Car is looking good by the way. :D


Not a useless reply at all - thanks for you help

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:49 am 
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Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
holden_swift wrote:
usually Fuel Pressure Regulators just require manifold vacuum to operate, so if there is any ports on the manifold after the butterfly use them. if not just tee off another manifold vacuum line


All good - there's plenty of empty ones to choose from (5 at the last count).

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Brisbane
I always thought a slide down for servicing and push it back up to get it out of the way arrangment. I would imagine a moke is a bit basic behind the dash. A simple hinge design is maybe all it needs.


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 11:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
saczel wrote:
I always thought a slide down for servicing and push it back up to get it out of the way arrangment. I would imagine a moke is a bit basic behind the dash. A simple hinge design is maybe all it needs.


I like the hinge idea - the under dash area in a Moke is open to the elements so will need to devise a bit of cover.

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
I'm still in need of a complete distributor for my conversion. Does anyone know where I can get one from or have a spare available.

Many thanks

Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Brisbane
You could ask in the parts wanted section someone probably has one lying around. Mk1 dizzys are vacuum advanced i think and the mk2&3 are done in the ecu so depending on your ecu number it might matter.


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Brisbane
Just curious but where did the "13" ecu come from that is in one of your photos? I have had 95 and 94 ones that have a "12" on both.


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Thanks Saczel - I've sourced a non-vacuum advance one now (which is what I need). The ECU came with the engine package. I've not opened it up yet but assume its Mk3.

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:09 pm
Posts: 1155
Location: Melbourne
sweet build! =D>


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 7:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
d wrote:
sweet build! =D>


Thanks mate


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
It's been a while since my last update but things have been progressing (just not photo worthy). During the last few days, I've been at the wiring, gear linkage and clutch pedal mods. I now have a 5 speed :D

Image

The linkage was a bit of a challenge - not sure what its made of but welding was not going well so I resorted to a sleeve and pipe bender. Its turned out ok and works a treat.

Image

The engine bay is just about finished apart from tidying the wiring and securing relays/fuses. I'm hoping to get the remainder of the fuel/ECU wiring completed this weekend so should be able to try a start up :D

Image

Cheers Adrian


Last edited by adriantillin on Sat Apr 16, 2016 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 11:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Guys - I've got my first wiring question. Which AFM should I use? I have a Mk1 manifold/AFM/TPS and a Mk2 ECU/loom. Mk1 AFM is part number Hitachi AFH38M-02 and Mk2 AFM is part number Hitachi AFH45-51. Both have three wires into the AFM (terminals BCD) but colours are different for Mk1 and Mk2 as follows:

Mk1 - B=Red C=Black D=Green
Mk2 - B=White C=Red D=Black

I'm assuming I need to retain the Mk1 AFM but then how does the wiring need to be connected?

Help much appreciated.

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:12 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Brisbane
I could be wrong but assume the mk2/3 ecu would need the remote afm as per the factory setup. My guess the mk 2/3 afm. Not too sure if it would mount on the end of manifold like mk1 or have it near filter, it might work either way. If space is a concern probably remote. Depends if the harness has the lenght. Try whatever is easiest and see what happens. My best guess.


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