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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 667
Location: NZ
thanks DrelvisGti...Im going to put that together as soon as I have finished the steering.

here is some steering pics...had an annoying day today remaking stuff....but its close...just electrics now.
Plus I have a wee tight spot...very light but its there...I know what it is too. I initially welded the u joint shafts to a coupler out of phase...BUGGER!...so it was a lot of work to redo that....and now I have a wee wobble in the lower u joint shaft [-X ...so bit of tweaking tomorrow.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:37 pm 
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Location: NZ
fixed the tight spot....found out it was the joint at the power steer end...just hitting at the extremes...tiny bit of relieving where it was touching and there were factory relief marks there already...hardly had to do much....but with the seat more inboard it always felt like you were reaching right to steer...I have straightened that up a bit so going a little more extreme on the joints....but they don't hit now so all good.

it steered harder right than left...a point noted in the instructions...a tiny adjustment and its perfect now. On full assist you can steer the wheels with one finger...great for the pits but will use 1/4 setting at the start for racing...if it fails...you just steer as normal.

some guys remove the EPAS for racing because they are just set too light...its bloody good having the adjustment.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 5:22 pm 
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Location: NZ
Today I cleaned up both my gearbox cases...I have a case that has a casting in one half for a magnetic wafer to catch metal...I rang Suzuki and found out that it appeared that only the mark one gearboxes had these?
however it is definitely a mark 2 input and countershaft. Bit of research suggests that late in the mark one series they made boxes with the mark 2 type gear setup...the cases changed for this of course..I think i have one of those...it is in better condition than the first box as that has been thrashed on the race track and the bearing bores are just not as nice looking as the late mark 1/2 box.

I have checked all the things that make the spare case a mark 2 box...it is identical to the mark two box i was running....except for the casting for the magnetic piece and a few very minor casting differences...but otherwise the same...Im going to use that for the dog kit...


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:36 pm 
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Posts: 667
Location: NZ
warning serious shop porn images below...not for younger viewers. lol 8-[


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 354
Location: Amberley
Gearbox is looking good.

On the subject of the power steering, I was surprised how much increasing the caster increased the low speed steering effort. As you'll probably remember I was replacing inserts and bushes in my road car and that included using a set of Whiteline caster bushes. The steering is now notably heavier at slow speeds. The setup is 4.25 deg caster, 1.5 deg negative and zero toe, the rear has 2mm toe out and it has Koni sports all round. Apart from the steering, it's better to drive than it's ever been.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:15 pm 
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Location: NZ
Very much like my set up Sam. I'm at 4.57 degrees castor....1.75 degrees negative and zero toe on the front. 2mm out on the rear. We are trying to get to 5.5 degrees castor. With the short steering arms from the swift spindle upgrade our steering was getting reasonably heavy....the EPAS unit has that sorted.

The box has one small issue. The distance between the bearings from the dog kit on the input shaft compared to the standard shaft is .40mm shorter. It means that the input shaft could "float" 16 thou fore and aft....being straight cut it probably does not matter but I will fit a shim beneath the front input bearing....which I'll have to replace....again....and it will then fit as normal. It's not the case...I measured both my cases and they are the same. It's simply the distance between the input shaft bearings


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:23 pm 
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Location: NZ
Foooo! She'll go fass now eh?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 9:27 pm
Posts: 857
Location: Brisbane
We run different settings to most guys
We have 2mm toe out on the front & 2mm toe in on the back
2degs negative camber
With the standard front bar & 20mm whiteline rear sway bar the handling is neutral which I like
We have 400lb front springs & 600lb rear springs Our Koni yellows have been revalved for higher rebound rating


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
Posts: 354
Location: Amberley
What's the wing from Glenn? It'll be interesting to see if it makes any difference.

I have a Renault Clio s1600 rear wing to go on my rally car but I haven't fitted it yet. The shape is quite a bit different. It's one of these in carbon:
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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:41 am
Posts: 1369
Location: Bunya QLD 4055
I'm with Steve on this as I have toe in on rear and toe out on front, but then again if your cars are gravel and ours are tarmac that could explain.

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If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:44 am 
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Location: NZ
Hi guys yeah we are playing with the settings and seeing how it goes. We are at 500 lbs rear and 300 at the front. BC shocks so not set up like the Koni shocks but I must say we are pretty happy with the handling. We went off someone else’s settings and until I stop buggerising around with the setup we won’t know wether toe settings and camber changes are for the better or worse. I’ll get the castor max first as we have power steer now....then I’ll change camber and finally play with toe settings...see what feels best to us.

Sam the rear wing is a low coefficient of friction setup so we can corner at 10 g’s and go over 300 Kph! Haha. I’m so full of $hit. 8-[ I reckon it will do absolutely nothing but the boy and I liked the look so we bought an egay cheapie. It’s quite solid so a little heavy.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 5:31 am 
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Location: Amberley
Those settings are for my road car. With the rally car I’m running toe in on the rear, that’s mainly aimed at straight line stability on gravel.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 8:16 am 
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Location: NZ
It turns in pretty well with the toe out on the rear...I took it from an article i read somewhere here on redline...or maybe team swift...i thought..well try that. But we do need to get our mostly final set up and then change one thing at a time...Ill tweak the rear toe then and gauge the difference. 8)

The engine bearings that i got from japan (graded) have come in at 1.75 thou....I have said lets go with it! I know 2 thou is an often accepted race spec...long way from book figures...but I don't want oil pressure issues again.
He is going to wet and dry the cam caps too....3.8 thou down to 2.5 thou.
I have told him to use the genuine g13B pump. I have both here....the g 13B pump is not a lot smaller...has 10 lobes instead of nine but a smaller volume behind the pump which is where the 1600 pump gets its extra flow from i guess. But this is me going back to basics....a new engine should be adequately oiled from a new genuine pump designed for the engine...the 1600 pump designed for 5000 rpm...the 1300 pump for an 8000 rpm engine...I just wonder if the 1600 pump is more suited to a lower raving engine using a turbo where the flow is needed and wether cavitation might be an issue living between 6500 and 8500 rpm....maybe the 1300 pump is better suited to that?...consensus is that either pump should provide more than enough pressure/flow on a new engine build....I have read instances of guys fitting 1600 pumps and not solving their low pressure issues....and one or two instances of guys fitting graded bearings and solving their issues. mostly from team swift trolling. Rightly or wrongly Im trying this to satisfy my own curiosity rather than just ripping into the 1600 pump change...

Having said that the other engine I'm slowly going to make up will be using the 1600 pump. Ill be sure to document my findings.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 4:31 pm 
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Location: NZ
so I made a tool to hold the 5th gear while torquing. I don't like jamming the gears together...nice soft ali left no marks.

yes the case is a bit munted under the tin top....that was not me...that was some back yard ratchet monkey that should not have access to tools. :shock: But the rest of the case is good.
Older than the case we were using but tighter in most respects as I don't believe it had been raced much.

It goes into all gears...guess we will see how it goes on the track :P
Thats 5k sitting there....so even though its not a large frame box I don't get to call it frankenbox...I guess we can call it mini frankenbox! :wink:

Motor is due back next week...so we can tie it all together


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:18 pm 
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Location: Napier
This thread should have an R18 label on it...

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:06 pm 
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Location: NZ
"This thread should have an R18 label on it..."

I Know Right?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 4:46 pm 
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Location: NZ
today I got home from argentina...so I'm tired...but i managed to make a dolly for the motor...pretty shonky but will do the trick...hold the engine at the right angle and be able to move it around under the car on the hoist. hope to have the motor back friday.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:00 am 
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Location: Bunya QLD 4055
I would not have thought you had to go to Argentina just to get bits for building a trolley. There is a company in Arg called Metalurgica Argentina that makes gearsets of which I have one. Close ratio straight cut dogbox.

_________________
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 8:39 am 
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Location: NZ
haha pictureshowman....I don't normally go to Argentina to pick up bits. I have to sit in the right seat of one of these. The trolley was a good "tired" project using bits and bobs I had lying around. But i have heard of the argentina based guy...you know where they are in argentina? I only go to Buenos aries.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 3:59 pm 
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Location: NZ
we started looking at how we might stick a splitter on the front bumper...it should make the car look a little better.

wether it helps in any other way remains to be seen...but the car looks so bloody high.... 8-[

Thinking of HDPE plastic.....and now need to find a method of fitting it so its easy to remove...or perhaps remove the whole bumper....Im thinking of dzus fasteners to hold the splitter to the bumper and a couple of brackets that the base slips into so its quick to remove...

comments?...except for the ones where it won't do anything...the "race" look is enough for us!!!! :P


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