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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2004 4:53 pm
Posts: 1763
Location: Melbourne
Mine's pretty similar to alu-siv:

pioneer 4x45 cd head unit
pioneer 4-way 6x9 on parcel shelf
4x 4" pioneer cones
Boss audio 4x175watt amp
Pioneer 10" 250wattRMS sub in sealed origional pioneer box
4 gauge wiring

I clocked this at 118db in the rear, 107db measured from centre-cabin... and that was with my old crappy Ultravox head unit (it didn't give very good head at all).

I laugh when I see the stock head unit in the '92 model. They suck when they're quiet, and they blow when they're loud.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 4:53 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Sthn H'Lands NSW Aus
Blaupunkt CD32 Santa Fe h/u
Blaupunkt 6.5in Overdrive splits
Avalanche 4x200w amp
Supercheap wiring kit
Fusion dual fuse holder

i also have a set of Kenwood 320w 7x10s sitting in their box on my bedroom floor coz i don't think my mdf-lined parcel shelf will hold them!!

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or $1850 with CV boot and 4 tyres.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 936
Location: brisbane,QLD,Australia
mine is

-alpine cda-9813 head deck
-rockford fosgate 200a4 amp
-rockford fosgate 15" he2 dual voice coil comp. sub. running off the 200a4 4 channel amp (2 channels bridged for each voice coil)
-rockford fosgate 120.2 amp
-cadence competition kevlar front 6.5" splits running off 120.2 amp
-ported 90L custom box boot install
-sony 5.25" splits in tray off head deck
-odysee 1000 battery
-uprated alternator

goes real low and very hard
136db when sub was "running in"
sound quality is awesome also thanks to the cadence splits. man they were well worth the $$$ as was all the rockford stuff and well the head deck is unbelievable.
just gotta get rid of the dodgy xplod's out of the tray as i hate sony audio stuff, it is pretty poorly made and sounds very cheap.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2004 10:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2004 7:39 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Mackay, Nth Queensland
yeah that is true i dont like xplod stuff it just dont seem right sure the aesthetics are nice but thats about it for me...

With that rockford setup that would be awesome! same with my 2 JBL 12's they have awesome quality and were hoping they get over the 140Db reading in the next sound off in town.... :roll: lets hope so 8)

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 Post subject: stezza
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2004 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 12:17 pm
Posts: 88
Location: SA mount gambier
kenwood deck 50x4
polk momo splits rrp $1000
kenwod 7x10's dunno what wattage 2x 12inch power plant subs
1x fusion pp digital amp fp-90010 1100rms
1 x fusion pp amp fp-1404 4chnl running splits & 7x10's
6 stacker kenwood

verrrrrry loud

taking out soon to replace with 2 15's and selling the digital amp and putting just 2 of the biggest 4chnl analouge amps i can find.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 548
Location: Campsie, sydney
deck: kenwood kdc-4023 cd/mp3
sub: 15" kicker comp EX in ported enclosure tuned @ 35hz
front stage: 4" kicker ex splits
rear fill: 6x9's in tha bak
amp: JBL GTO4000 class ab 50WRMSx4 @ 4 ohms 300WRMSx2 @ 4 ohms amp
wiring: 4AWG OFC Cables from batt Into Fused Diss Block to 2/8AWG OFC cabling to amps

COMING UP CHANGES

Different deck w/ lcd screen (touch type)

got this Db tested and hit 139.6. Not too bad i guess.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 9:51 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 351
Location: Mildura Victoria
i have mostly kicker stuff.. but as i'm actually putting it in at the moment.. i'll tell you what my white car had in it. and wat we are putting in my black mk2.

2 x Kicker Square subs
1 x 2channel 500w (zr1000) Kicker amp (rrp 2000)
2 x 6x9 dogy kenwood POS.
2 x 5 3/4 splits by kicker not sure wat model but they are comp speakers
Kicker IX702 amp running 6x9s
Kicker IX404 amp running 6" and 5 3/4" speakers
2 x 6" kicker speakers not sure wat model but they are comp speakers
some sort of capacitor not sure what model ..
i was running a second optima batt as well but wont be in new system. as it died.
and new clarion head unit.
that's about it i think

with that stereo i got 143db with mic at front left on windscreen..
was really happy with that.. we are hoping with the new install it will be louder as we are making the box a bit bigger and pulling out the back seats!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 11:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 1356
Location: Sleeping in a parbar case...
Meh :P
Talk to me when you have run 1/0 guage cable to your boot/hatch :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:59 am
Posts: 949
Location: Canada, ON
Kyle wrote:
Meh :P
Talk to me when you have run 1/0 guage cable to your boot/hatch :wink:


Well here's the first run...now I have two runs of 0 gauge to the rear of the car...talk to me when you have three ;)
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 1679
Location: Eastern-Suburbs, Sydney
Headunit:
Pioneer Premier DEH-860MP Headunit

Speakers:
Pioneer TS-160R Competition 6 3/4' Splits
Boston Acustic FX4 4' 2 Ways
JBL GT4 4'x6' 2 Ways

Subwoofers:
18' Kicker Solo-X Square Woofer [For show off use only]
2 Pioneer 10" Yellow Competition Subs [For street driving]

Amps:
Pioneer GM-X372 50WRMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
Pioneer GM-X572 70WRMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
Rockford Fosgate 501bd 684WRMS x 1 @ 2 ohms

Capacitor:
Stinger SCAP1MFD 1 Farad

Deadening:
Dynamat X-Treme Car Kit..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 4196
Location: Perth
m wrote:
Kyle wrote:
Meh :P
Talk to me when you have run 1/0 guage cable to your boot/hatch :wink:


Well here's the first run...now I have two runs of 0 gauge to the rear of the car...talk to me when you have three ;)
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WHY, OH WHY do you have two lengths of 0 guage, even 1 piece is serious overkill or any loud system. unless you like.........rice :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 5:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:59 am
Posts: 949
Location: Canada, ON
There is going to be over 5000W on tap and I'm not against doubling that figure. Total current draw of the system will be in excess of 300A (@5000W). For something of that size overkill is a good thing. 2 runs isn't actualy as much overkil as you would think it is.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 1679
Location: Eastern-Suburbs, Sydney
m, Do you earth to the chassis or battery terminal...? Cause when you earth back to the battery, your resistance is alot less, earth is alot better, and you can flow ore current, through the same size cable; we managed to flow 180A out of 8mm cable, as it was earthed back to the battery, without heating up.....

Instead of running 2 runs of 0 guage, have you ever considered 12mm Welding Cable; 100 strand of 1mm Copper, Capable of flowing 1000 amps... You can pick up rolls of it alot cheaper than brand name car audio power cable....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:43 am 
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Posts: 949
Location: Canada, ON
I've used welding cable before and it works great. I can get the 0 gauge for cheaper though where I worked at before. I've looked at -2 and -3 cable but it won't fit unless I run it under the car. I did have an 0 gauge ground (earth) running to the back and checked voltage drop. It was the same as just grounding it to the back on the chassis. Not sure why because I have seen it drop more on other cars. When I do a ground though I run the 0 gauge to a distro block and have three runs of 4 gauge running to different locations on the chassis. I may end up moving my battery to the hatch soon and then it will be grounded to the battery.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:47 am 
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Location: Eastern-Suburbs, Sydney
Its not the voltage drop, its the current drop that got me... We were only able to flow 1/2 as much current [Amps] through the chassis earth, than the battery earth...

Cause what we forgot is every weld, nut and bolt along the chassis and bodywork increases resistance....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 11:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 4196
Location: Perth
I wouldn'd mind knwoing what type and brand of fuse your using? I've only heard of one 300 amp fuse, and it's made by stinger, and costs a shitload.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:59 am
Posts: 949
Location: Canada, ON
I keep a 250A fuse in the front block for daily driving. I'll never use more than that current draw while I'm in the car. Amps in the back will each have there own 250A fuse. I can get 250's for about $10 a pop. If I go to more amps I can get ANLs good for 750A. You can also get them from here: http://www.bluesea.com/Products/FB/FB.html They are at the bottom of the page. I'm sure there are some places near you that could get them. Stinger cahrges an arm and a leg for everything that they make. Doesn't make them better. Their fuses cost about $20-$25 here over the $10 Tsunami.

tu_crazy: we didn't have a huge drop in current either. I only have the single amp right now (2500W) but I'm thinking that the current I start to pull the greater the drop will be when you factor in the current % of loss. With the battery in the back I think it will solve the problem.

Oh yeah, the fuse is made by Tsunami


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 4:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 4196
Location: Perth
Dude thre is some crazy stuff on that website, stuff i've never seen before, a 750amp ANL, nuts! you would need a cable as thick as my wrist to get that thing to blow!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:59 am
Posts: 949
Location: Canada, ON
A lot of that stuff isn't really stuff you get looking for car audio either. I have had to find things for sheer necessity of having current demands greater than most anything "normal" on the road. It's nice to find things like that though because they don't carry the brand name pricing and you actualy pay what it's worth. Like welding cable for example. I can get it for around $2-$3 a foot retail. Brand name 0 gauge would be around $12 a foot retail. Same stuff really.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2004 11:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 1356
Location: Sleeping in a parbar case...
If you have problems sourcing a large enough fuse, use 2 in parallel :)


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