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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 7:27 pm 
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Location: Christchurch
Yes, i guess given you have a spacer to correct the offset anyway then using a spacer either side of the disc is another option that will work.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:18 pm 
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Location: NZ
yes only time it would be an issue is if i wanted to refit wheels with a 38 offset or less....more than that i could thin the outer spacer. Lachlan is going to modify the hub etc so that everything is held perfectly concentric as moving the disc out 7mm will take it off the boss on the hub. The new swift disc is 20mm wide...the GTI 18mm however its a well know upgrade to fit the new swift callipers to the gti hubs/discs. just like losing only 1mm per side off the pads. Couldn't relocate the caliper easily or that could have been an option....it was easier in this case to split the spacers. I think Lachlan is going to extend the center boss on the hub.

we have an easy fix though. I drop off a Znoelli GTI disc...a lump of 6061 billet, two GTI hubs, some cash and then go to London. When I get back I put together the magic he has conjured for me. =D>
now thats a great plan. 8)


Last edited by swift12 on Sun Sep 17, 2017 9:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 9:24 pm 
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So I removed the booster. Found a billet I was once going to use for an offroader I never made and turned it into a mount on the vibromill. :lol: it comes complete with machine narks which I mostly filed off until I got sick of it. :roll: Had to space it out to avoid the wiper motor and I wasn't going to relocate the wiper motoras the spacer was easier. It's shorter than the booster so more room.now I just need to make a long pushrod.

I enjoyed this project....after lachlan gets done with the spacers and I replace the bearings I munted (yes I was a cheap ass and used the old bearings as I had hammered on them but was looking for an excuse to replace them even though they still appeared smooth) [-X then I'll have the front suspension all done.

Bit of brake line work....then it's just motor and box....


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 6:40 pm 
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Location: Christchurch
Another option would have been a remote reservoir. When you decide to fit ITB's you'll want the master cylinder as compact as possible.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:43 pm 
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Location: NZ
LOL...i won't fit ITB's Sam...I reckon we have done enough...! :shock:

I was told 2 thou piston to wall clearance... 8-[ seems pretty tight to me but then that was from Mike who machined the pistons. Given the book figures are .8 of a thou to 1.5 thou when new I guess 2 thou is about right. Jeepers it seems quite small but i guess its only a little cylinder. I won't argue with the man though [-X . Not going to try reinvent the wheel.

I have got my mate on the job of tweaking the spacers to fit the znoelli GTI discs to the new uprights. so when i get home its bolt together time...finally....
In taking out the hubs again I had the outside inner race come out with the hub as normal...I wanted to take them off so lachlan had something decent to grab in the lathe...turns out he would hold them by the outside of the hub and DTI them so i did not need to remove the race...in doing so i stuffed them....oh well...I really wanted new bearings anyway. Surprised me, but suzuki sells the genuine bearing which is a KOYO for $75 inc...not too bad.

on a crappy note...a genuine oil pump ex japan is $485 (aisin) including....going to be aftermarket there I reckon. :cry:


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:23 pm 
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Location: Christchurch
$75 isn't bad for the wheel bearing. I'll get a trade price for SKF but I suspect it'll still be more.

I'd go with Mike's clearance, it's more than production but he should know.

What else are you doing to the block? I know the turbo guys grout the water jacket but I haven't seen it done for NA motors or any failures that it might have prevented.

I guess you'll be running ARP head studs, mains, fly wheel and rod bolts?

What about the crank, are you doing anything to clean that up or running a scraper?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 10:17 am 
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Location: NZ
No grout, no arp stuff in the motor. Got new head bolts from Mike. Says a good MLS head gasket is all you need. Only the boost guys need the arp stuff.....high horsepower stuff.
No scrapers....just a crank polish, bearings, valves, headwork, rods, Pistons, balance.

They gave told me my oil pump needs replacing. 8-[ well that's $485 genuine. Bugger. Any other options? I'm confused by the numbers of oil pumps and what will fit. They can't get an aftermarket one for the G13b.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:15 am 
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Location: Christchurch
If you're lightening your flywheel then I would certainly use ARP bolts. I learnt the hard way what happens when you lighten it too much and rely on Swiss cheese bolts. The lighter it is the better the fixing needs to be. I also run ARP head studs but not mains.

After market high capacity oil pumps are definitely available, might just not be listed as being for a G13B. I got one a while back from Bewitched, I was after one with the mount for a crank sensor so it's probably for something like a G13BB. Maybe send him a PM and see what he has.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:58 pm 
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Location: NZ
Cheers I'll look into it. Everyone says g16b....I can't find any listings here except for g13bb...g13ba, g16k etc etc....like a lot of other stuff I think I'll get the wrong one again so trying to nail it down. Lots of aftermarket stuff....I was trying to find oem....aisin.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:04 pm 
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Location: Portugal
Hey bud, awesome build, a lot of attention to details, cant wait to see this car running

About the front bearings, i bought from SKF, at a direct source of skf, for about 23euros each, and inside it was KOYO, when i initially searched for KOYO i remember they were a lot more expensive, here are some pics

Image
Image
Image

Best of luck!


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 6:39 am 
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Location: Christchurch
When you get your motor up and running it would great to see what it makes on the dyno. Did you get the extractors sorted?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:17 pm 
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Location: NZ
Yes I have mostly Koyo bearings for my gearbox. Thanks for the kind words on the car.

I have made a few different posts asking questions and posted pics on them. I really should have just kept the one thread. So I've already posted some of these pics on another thread. Now the motor sits awaiting the oil pump and a bit more time. Just gotta drive the triple to LA and back and I'll have the pump. Then a Houston trip and another LA.....then three weeks off. Time to get that car back on the track.

Hey Sam. Nope on the extractors. But see the other gizmo I got for a selfie early Xmas present.....might be its first job. Initially I'm going to use the cast ones as has been suggested by Derek and Blake. At some stage I'll make some just to give the tig a work out and get rid of some more weight.

To be honest....I stuffed up when putting the cams in....I did not align them....I was worried I hit the valves on each other....but I think I'm ok as the lifters were all a bit unloaded so had 3mm of play. I was going to pull the head off....but instead vacuum checked the ports as the machinist said if I have bent valves then I will not be able to get any vacumn. Just a slow leak down through the guides. Which all of them did. Dumb arse.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 4:47 am 
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Location: Christchurch
Yes, the factory extractor won't cost a lot of power. Based on the comparisons posted is seems to be around 2hp at the top end.

If you do decide to build one, Autobend sell the flange and they can also bend mandrel tubes to any shape. That makes assembling one relatively easy but probably no cheaper than buying a set.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:59 pm 
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Location: NZ
thanks Sam.

Well good news...I borrowed a tool from the machinists that sucks the air from the port using a gun...if the valves are bent they will show up on this test as a low suction.....all ports raced to 27 on the scale and held......he said it won't suck if a valve is bent...not even a smidge....so we are going to rock on with the build...yippee.

Next time ill be more careful..... [-X

Mean time...Nick and I had a great day trying to fix his crashed car that his sister drove into a fence and tree for him...and checked the suction on the G13B as well as fitting the front suspension on the Swift!....we also replaced all the CV boots....and washed the front of my truck with bugs trying to dissolve on the front of it. Nick also mowed the lawns.... :D

so here is the wheel wells tidied up....the new swift uprights with the modded lower control arms....new swift brakes with Znollei slotted discs...arp long studs and spacers.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 4:37 am 
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Location: NZ
Well the manifold crack repair which is spray welding and a surface will cost $160. In my eyes not worth it to refit a boat anchor. I emailed suzukird a second time to see if they still did that four into one. As I have been told they are useless and I have no idea how they stay in business. They ignore customers. So I'm going to make my own one. Time to learn tig. I will use 1 1/12 inch pipe. I'll use bends and weld it where necessary. Easiest way to set up in work shop. I don't know of a cad program to get pipes mandrel bent. I will make my own flange design. I'll get it plasma cut from 12mm at turners fabrication. Not expensive. The biggest issue is how long to make the pipes before they merge into one. The exit will be 2.25" to match my mufflers. I know the pipes must all be the same length. They will be to the mm. Good project I guess. If the cast was in better condition I'd use it but with the crack and the no. 2 Cylinder area eaten away and the flange needing surfacing it's just not worth it. I think I can make a header myself for around $200. I'll use mild and paint it black just to stop rust. Looking for something to use my new tig on


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 2:40 pm 
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Location: Bunya QLD 4055
SuzukiRD don't have them in stock and will not be making them in future they told me.

_________________
If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure".
Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:21 pm 
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Posts: 825
Location: Brisbane
This is the merge collector on our extractors


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 6:01 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 172
Location: NZ
You mean suzukird actually talk to people? I have sent 4 emails without 1 reply. Not a good way to run business [-X

That merge collector looks great! Are they 1 1/2" primaries?

Plus a few questions guys.

1. I have my g16 pump....non CAS. It has a metal gasket....yes or no? 8-[

2. Gearbox oil...weight, brand......I have a clutch pack suzuki Motorsport LSD

3. Engine oil.....for run in and for racing. Different or the same? What weight? Brand?

4. I have an underdrive that has been balanced with the crank etc. no marks on it....I need to find TDC....which I can do no problems....I have the tools for that....(piston stop, dti) I'll need to mark TDC and a timing mark....is it 4 degrees as a start point?

5. I have a 52mm TB (bored out stock) I have fitted my TPS....is it the same settings as the manual would give me for setting up.

Also not a question. I have set up a remote oil sensor line. Primarily because I have both a light and a gauge. The light is 20 psi. 4.5 psi just tells you that you killed your motor. The gauge is so we can see what's happening if the 20 psi light comes on. The electric sender for the gauge is quite large. With hard poly mounts and lumpy cams etc I imagine those sensors will not enjoy the environment....I have a 3 AN line running from the standard oil sensor point to a rubber mounted block I'll make on the mill. That will have both sensors in it.
I have read stories and been involved (off road racing) with a single oil pressure light sender dying putting race day in the bin....not fun. Just trying to avoid that.

Any advice appreciated


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:48 pm 
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Posts: 825
Location: Brisbane
Primaries are 1 1/4 & merge collector has tapered tail pipe to great suction effort for scaffaging


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 4:30 am 
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Posts: 172
Location: NZ
1 1/4 inch is only 31 mm....that seems really small...now I'm really confused...


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