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 Post subject: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:03 pm 
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All credit to Joe AKA Squiffswift (Ukswift) / mojoe (teamswift username) for this Post.

SR20 Throttle Body Conversion
To carry out this Conversion you will need the following:
Rough Estimate Prices on what I paid for (price can + or - depending where you source your parts from)

SR20tb (£40)
Up rated fuel rail (est £30)
Intake manifold (est. £40)
Air Flow Meter (est. £15)
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (est. £100)
Intake hose (est. £30)
Hose joiners and reducers (est. £30)
TOTAL £285

This sounds expensive, but I personally bought these parts over a few months, and even had some lying about, the price can seriously be reduced if you have spare Intake Manifolds, AFM, AFPR etc or buy things from scrappys, eBay or other swift owners!

THIS IS JUST A ROUGH GUIDE

Labour would also have to be a factor if you are unable to carry out the following jobs by yourself.


THE GUIDE:


SR20tb (can source these from Nissan 200sx (1.8 and 2ltr), 2ltr primira, 2ltr sunny etc, sizes can vary from 50,55 and 60mm (depending upon year and size of engine) Keep an eye on scrap yards, eBay, Nissan for sale forums (should be looking to pay no more than £40 for a decent one) You will need to source the old cable arm and spring from your swift, it is a bit tricky to do, but patience is the key . Also you will need to bolt the Throttle Position Sensor on the other way around, due to the shape of the SR20, it still works fine this way.
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Uprated fuel rail, one way to this is to get a mk1 fuel rail, unbolt the stock fuel regulator, and tap a BSP thread (its tapered and is self sealing), if you go into any gas/camping shop they should be able to supply a brass fitting, this will allow you to clamp a fuel hose to and plum in an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. Another way is to buy an aftermarket fuel rail (teamswift, turbine tech I think can supply this) Or if your handy with a welder cut the stock regulator off the mk2 rail (on the left hand side if your looking at the engine) weld a plate with a lug on.
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Choice out of the three will depend on, time, money and skills. The easiest would be to buy one ready made from turbine tech or any other swifty performance places. I personally adapted the mk1 fuel rail. It is always handy to have a spare intake manifold and Air Flow Meter housing as modifications could go wrong or take longer than expected

Once you got a tb, bolt it in place, open the butterfly valve and scribe around the inside (so that you know how much to grind away) Take tb off and by using a flapper drill bit (loads of segmented sand paper) work you way in circular motions around the inside of the intake manifold, due to the manifold being made out of aluminium it is very easy, so should only take you about 5mins!
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The Air Flow Meter housing as standard is 45mm, this will need to be opened up to 49mm, but to be safe go to 48.5mm. Any good machinist should be able to do this for you in a few mins. (By using a lathe) The Air Flow Meter from theSR20 is 49mm, but the HITACHI sensors look the same but are slightly configured different, so to keep the original Swift AFM and just bore it out.
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Get your self an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, FSE are the main manufactures and it doesn't really matter what one you use, but it should be able to adjust from 20-60psi (rough guide) Again check eBay as there is always bits and bobs on there! The standard fuel pressure is 35-36psi, but to run the SR20 you should have 40psi at warm idle! The AFPR needs to go on the return fuel line, you can identify this by tracing back to where the original one went (left hand side) pick a place where you can securely bolt it, I fixed mine onto the bulk head (at a later date I will make up a fixing bracket that goes onto the intake manifold, but its up to you!)
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Larger intake pipe, I used a 90mm civic induction pipe. It will need to be cut down as you will only need about 8 or so inches where there is about 45° angle and a breather lug (this will be used to put the idle hose) You an pick these up very cheaply on, wait for it - eBay! £20 or so, I got mine from the eBay.com as they love their civics and it didn't cost much at all to get shipped. Then again you could use a right angled reducer elbow from samco hoses or get a custom one made up - depending on the modifier. You will need to get some reducer hoses to attach the tb-induction pipe, and the induction pipe-Air Flow Meter housing. I used samco hoses as they were easy to order and to see what sizes, shapes were available. This came at a price, I think I paid about £30 or so for the two! As you can see it is a very tight fit, I had to cut about with the induction pipe and some bits of the samco's to get it to fit.
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That should be about it really, you can only adjust idle from the small screw - but every time you do you should reset the tps (but don't worry about that until you got it idling ok) you should check the fuel pressure and adjust to 40psi AT WARM IDLE. You will notice a big difference in sound (very throaty) and sometimes the throttle feels like it's either off or on. The car felt like it had a bigger engine as I felt low down torque improved. (As I didn't have to change down to low gears as much)

ONE THING TO REMEMBER!

The only real way your going to get maximum benefit from this mod is by getting it tuned and setup on a rolling road, Also by having a piggyback Engine/Electronic Control/Computer Unit/tuneable chip (unichip etc) they can set it up and make it work very well. Regardless to what you do to your car, you should get it tuned/setup on the rollers or actual on the road tuning, this will ensure your car will run at its maximum potential and that your not loosing performance rather than gaining.
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Conclusion

Is the SR20tb worth it?

If you can't do a lot of the work yourself and need to pay for labour, then you'd spend a lot more than what you'd get out of it. Once the car was going, it went and sounded awesome. I had a lot of other things done at once so this also would be a result of that. Since I have removed the tb, just down to the that I couldn't adjust the idling to my liking, I think a lot of this was down to incorrect tps adjustment, because I do a lot of city driving I'd rather have something reliable!

How much Brake Horsepower would I normally expect?
4-6 bhp, doesn't sound a lot, but that's still 4-6% bhp increase from standard. Depending on your current/future mods will also affect this, REMEMEBER every little helps! I hope this will help people with the conversion and give guidance to what needs to be done, if I have missed or messed up anything please let me know so that I can make amendments.

Cheers Joe Lewis


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 Post subject: Re: SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:56 am 
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Very informative article...and makes the job sound very easy to handle.

Thanks very much!


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 Post subject: Re: SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 1:19 pm 
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can it done with MK1?


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 Post subject: Re: SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 1:24 pm 
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Not without a LOT more work and parts - MK2/3 manifold, SR20 TB, MK2/3 AFM housing .... then sort out the cold start valve. The answer is yes it can be done, but it is more work than shown here.

EDIT - if you really want to try this on a MK1, contact Puss-on-Boost as he has done it and can tell you what needs to be done over what is shown here.


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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:17 pm 
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What do we do with the dashpot that was on the GTi TB? do we re-use it on the SR20 TB or just chuck it away?

Sorry for bummping up an old thread..

But after the SR20 conversion on my GTi, the idle is so low on idle (200-500rpm) and when I am driving, it stalls when i clutch in...

HELP IT'S SOOOO ANNOYING

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:29 pm 
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The dash pot is deleted. It is only used to slow the throttle close - helps meet the emissions requirements.
The dashpot won't have any effect on low idle. You have to adjust the SR20 throttle stop to open the butterfly and then reset the TPS.

Read Droo's How to Adjust the TPS post to see what to do to get the idle and TPS set up correctly.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29623&hilit=Throttle+body+probs


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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:49 pm 
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zedd wrote:
The dash pot is deleted. It is only used to slow the throttle close - helps meet the emissions requirements.
The dashpot won't have any effect on low idle. You have to adjust the SR20 throttle stop to open the butterfly and then reset the TPS.

Read Droo's How to Adjust the TPS post to see what to do to get the idle and TPS set up correctly.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29623&hilit=Throttle+body+probs



How do you adjust the SR20 throttle stop? do i have to keep it comporessed one coil more or less? is that how you do it?

Read Droo's info and it wasnt that clear on how to adjust the throttle stop.

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 7:52 pm 
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On mine - yours should be similar:

Stand in front of the car and look at the TB. The butterfly shaft has a spring coiled round it, to the left is where the throttle cable attaches to the arm - directly behind the cable end is small lock nut and set screw. Let the lock nut off and turn the set screw up or down to change the idle (how much the butterfly is open). Once you get the idle where you want it, reset the TPS. You have to keep readjusting the TPS because adjusting the throttle stop changes the TPS switch setting. Lock the nut when the idle is right and put a dob of nail polish on it to lock it and give you a visible indicator if the lock nut or set screw ever get adjusted.

I'll post a picture tomorrow evening showing the adjuster. Your throttle body may be a different model to mine, but the adjuster is there - just turn the throttle shaft and look for what stops or limits the throttle plate (the buttefly) jamming into the housing.

I just looked closer at the photos here and mine is different. No matter - look for the locknut and set screw that limits the throttle rotation in the closed position.


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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 7:58 pm 
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I know im nit picking here, but the 1.8L nissan motor is a CA18, not a SR20.
The SR20 is a 2L 4 banger. Also comes in a nice FWD variant with quad throttle bodies and high compression in the SSS bluebird (JDM) (not sure what year though, never did much research into it)

Sorry to pick on such a small detail, but it has been annoying me, :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:01 pm 
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tlmitf wrote:
I know im nit picking here, but the 1.8L nissan motor is a CA18, not a SR20.
The SR20 is a 2L 4 banger. Also comes in a nice FWD variant with quad throttle bodies and high compression in the SSS bluebird (JDM) (not sure what year though, never did much research into it)

Sorry to pick on such a small detail, but it has been annoying me, :lol:

SR20 also came in (that i know of) N14 and N15 SSS Pulsars and pulsar GTiR.

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 11:56 pm 
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Gti-r came factory with quad tb's...

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 12:48 am 
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Pauly wrote:
Gti-r came factory with quad tb's...

there you go... 8)

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 1:13 am 
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Learn something new every day :)

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 1:18 am 
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THanks to n0madic, Dave for helping me out..

Sent me this pic of the throttle screw on the SR20 tb.. picture is a bit rough but there's only 1 small "+" screw held by an 8mm nut.

Gotta loosen the nut and slowly adjust the screw to desired idle.

Cheers for all the info guys. ALL sorted out. Hope this pic by Dave helps those who were lost like me..


Attachments:
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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 3:51 pm 
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just a quick question on this..... I was told by a guy at Suzitech that you cant use a sr20 tb with a factory ecu.. is this true


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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 4:06 pm 
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Yes but you should also run and adjustable Fuel Reg which means either a custom Mk1 rail or buy one off DMW..

Because More air needs more fuel...

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 4:11 pm 
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Cheers... might just stick with a GTi one and bore it out


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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 4:26 pm 
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You will be fine if you got both a chipped ecu and an adjustable FPR.

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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 4:28 pm 
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Will be getting a gtaye chip next week


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 Post subject: Re: FAQ SR20 TB How-To - with pictures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 4:37 pm 
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Hi Guys,

Maybe this is a silly question, once conversion is done, will this increase or
decrease fuel efficiency?


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