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 Post subject: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:15 am 
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Hey guys. Had my front lip in primer for a couple of days, then sprayed four coats of paint, left that for two days to dry out, then sprayed five coats of clear. Looked immaculate. Problem is, my little brother decided to touch it and has resulted iota big fingerprint in the clear. He tore it by pushing it, and now there is a clump of wrinkled clear coat just sitting there. It happened yester evening- and is now in a dry place. Put it out in the sun this morning to bake and want to attack the problem area this afternoon when i get home from work. What would be the best way to get it back into shape? I was thinking I'd carefully cut the clump off and wet sand the general area and recoat in clear. Am i in the ballpark?

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:28 am 
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I take it you used acrylic or ISO Free Clear over an acrylic base?

I'm not a painter but this is how I fix runs in my jobs. What you're looking at is about the same task.

If the lumps are fairly proud of the surface, just sanding might cut through the clear at the edges of where you are sanding. If you cut through the base to the primer - start over from the beginning. If you knew how to paint, blend etc you could just fix the rub through. I can't spot repair so I just sand it out and re-paint.

Small defects can be blocked out with 1200 wet and dry (wet). Try not to go through the clear and back to the base. If the base is mangled, you'll have to sand it right out, re-prime and repaint. With 5 coats to work with, all bar the really lumpy stuff should rub out without any problems.

For the lumpy bits (and it looks to be only in the clear coat), get some spot putty or blade putty (really fine finishing bog) and carefully wipe it over the lumpy bits to fill in the low spots to bring the low spots up to the same level as the high bits. Don't go too far from the damaged area onto the good surface but make sure you have enough area to keep the sanding block flat. Use as little putty as possible to smooth it out. The more you put on, the more you have to sand off, and, when it is all off, you will see marks where the spot putty was on the clear coat - don't worry about it. It will go away as the clear coats go on. Just make sure the surface ends up dead smooth.

Start with some 800 wet and dry, a rubber block and lots of clean water with a couple of drops of detergent. Keeping the block flat to the surface, very carefully block the spot putty down until all the high clear spots and spot putty are gone. Swap to 1200 to remove any scratches from the 800 and then wet sand the rest of the panel. Use 800 and then 1200 to fix any other messy bits. It take time to do this with fine grade paper but you are far less likely to cut through the clear or base coats. Unless you are an experienced painter and can blend the clear repair to the existing paint, sand everything and clear coat the whole panel again.

Degrease and tack off before painting.

Measure paint and thinners really well - too much thinners or hardener might cause the lower coats to react.

Mist on the first coat and let it flash off (at LEAST 15 ~ 30 minutes or whatever they say on the can). Don't try to get any coverage with this coat. It's the key coat to bind the new coats to the existing coats. It'll look dry / dull if you did it right - not wet.

Mist some more over your repairs (allowing flash off times) to build those areas up, and then do a couple of full coats but not so wet or loaded that the coats run. These coats will look wet. Allow plenty of flash off time between coats. Re-coat too soon and it will run or orange peel. When it drys, put it out of harms way (and little brothers fingers) to dry right through. 4 light coats are better than 2 over wet coats and way less likely to run.

Don't handle it or put it in the sun for at least a couple of days. About a week later, use some 2000 wet and dry to remove any imperfections and then buff it with coarse compound, medium and then swirl remover (fine). You can go over the entire surface with soapy 2000 wet to remove the orange peel and make the cutting easier. If you are compounding by hand, change the polish cloth often and use fresh cloths for each grade of compound. When you're happy with the finish, wax it and you're done.

How successful you are, depends entirely on your skills and attention to detail. The above works for me - your mileage may vary.


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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:15 pm 
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Wow, great reply. Many thanks! I'm only a newbie when it comes to doing this sort of thing. Will keep the thread updated and post any more problems i May run into.

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:29 pm 
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Depends how old your brother is.

<15 Then follow above advice from Zedd.

>15 punch him real hard and make him pay to fix his own sh!tty stuffups :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:21 am 
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Haha grape. Too funny. Little guy is only twelve. Still. He's a massive douche.

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:30 pm 
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Why did you wait 2 days to clear it? How did you clean the surface before you cleared it? Usually I allow about 30 mins before clear coating


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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:45 pm 
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Cleaned the surface with wax grease remover then tacked off. I waited because I didn't have a baking room. It's a garage project. I solved the problem, the clear soaked up the humidity and "bloomed". Going to sand it back to base coat and re apply the clear on a drier day. Thanks though guys, appreciate the input.

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:52 pm 
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It was too cold, not humid


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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:57 pm 
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Correct, PGB. It was definitely a combination of both extreme temperature and air moisture the first time.

The second time, it was humidity alone. I rubbed it back the next afternoon to the basecoat; and re applied my clearcoat. It was a very comfortable temperature that afternoon, and so; could not have made the clearcoat bloom. Happened worse that time!

Now i'm just waiting for a sunny day streak.

Definitely a lesson learnt!


Thanks,

Dan.

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 2:41 am 
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To be honest I've never had paint bloom due to humidity. Are you painting in a sauna? lol
Can bake cars in a water booth and it wont happen.

Preheat the lip before painting if possible. Not hot, just warm it up approx 15c with a heat gun or in the sun. If its an old heat gun don't use it to dry your clear or it will spit crap all through it. If you do use a heat gun to help it along don't direct it at the job, Just warm the air in the general area.
Three coats of clear is more than enough. Five coats painted in the afternoon won't dry before nightfall without a booth or heat lamps. All else fails paint around 10am-11am on a sunny day as you said.


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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 12:12 pm 
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Some awesome tips. Thanks PGB. To be precise, are you referring to 2 pack paint? I'd imagine it is a Hell of a lot more forgiving on environmental factors than one pack lacquer out of a rattlecan. Apparantly rattlecan clear coat is notorious for blooming on humid and or cold days. Yes, it basically was a sauna in my garage. The heavy rain ended up inside. Add closed doors and a bit of heat to the equation and you have yourself a greenhouse. :)

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 Post subject: Re: Spraypainting question!
PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Sorry I just presumed you'd be using a different method. It can still happen with 2k but yeah its a lot more forgiving
All I could add is Fluorescent work lights on the stands put out a bit of heat. You'll need it and will come in handy if you can get hold of a set.
Also let the coats tack right off before applying another. I'm talking 20 mins or more between coats presuming spray can clear would take a lot longer to dry than 2k. It will give the overall job a better chance at drying better and less chance of solvents getting trapped between coats causing random nastiness.
There is a thousand tips to give. Difficult to write them all but easy to show someone. I'll never make a TAFE teacher. Not that I would want to lol

edit: Just to clarify don't sit the lamps 5cm off the job lol Just towards the jobs direction warming the general area as I described earlier


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