I have been doing some research and i would like some advise on this topic,

i have spoke to Suzitech and the say they can do it but i would be happier with the standard 10 psi boost on engine rebuild a heavy duty clutch and lightened fly wheel..

what i'm getting at is who ever has a simular setup are you happy and what specs does your car provide in terms of power out put and reliability.

do you think i'm being unrealistic with this mind set?

i would also like to ask if anybody has any other ideas in terms of me recieving more power?

Any ideas or feedback would be greatly appriciated!!

160KW at engine or wheels?

160KW / ~220BHP at the engine is possible.

I would use the search feature and copy what many others have already done to their Swifts.

Beware of Suzitech HD clutches... they are only Exedy organic driven plates and slightly uprated pressure plates (specs unknown)... Not "Heavy Duty" enough for serious power / torque increases.

The one in my Baleno slips in 3rd gear and above at 12psi and although it is by my best guess close to 200bhp I doubt it is making the power figures you desire.

Cheers,
Damian

I would be looking at least rebuilding with lower comp, strengthening of the rods, head mods, and a replacement ECU. You will also need to look at the fuel system and possibly upgrade that. You have to remember that this is over 200hp, have a chat to some of the queensland turbo guys, there is some big numbers happening there.

160kw @ wheels
is it worth doing or not i mean money being one issue and where do you use the power another, i want my car to be a sleeper and at the moment it is it has a hole in the bonnet patched up with cloth tape, crappy wheels dented body the only thing that would let you know if the car was quick is to see the rear end of my car as i pass you then being 200m or so in front of you..

Well is no-one can answer if its worth it but yourself.

If you want to do it then I would suggest getting Mofro's old motor or at least the bottom end.

Also, do you know much about spinning your own spanners? If you haven't done much work on cars before, you gonna probably find it very hard, and then get copped with a HUGE labor bill! Not to mention if you stuff something up.

My old turbo setup (dodgy/budget as anything!) with 91.5kw-@TW was fast enough for any street going purpose. Too fast at one point. But personally I wouldn't mind getting into a bit of running down the 1/4 mile, so I am upgrading, but not blowing the power side completely off the street, so to speak.

There is no magic combination of parts for any power point, as you can see from the dyno and et page there are many factors into making a fast car.

But why not look at the cars for sale thread and parts . Starting with a car already turbo'd is going to save you a lot of money.

I am sure that any turbo Swift is insanely fast and the power figures are not so relevant for a street car as you have to be very careful of if / when you use it... It is too easy to speed and lose your licence etc.. etc..

Sure the outright power figure is one thing... but you need to keep in mind that it NEEDS to be useable the other 95% of the time when driving normally.

No point having all that power if you can't get it to the ground due to axle tramp / wheel spin and torque steer and also even worse if you plough into the back of something due to grossly inadequate braking.

You will need to serioulsy upgrade the suspension and brakes to make the car useable and safe not to mention legal with that level of power... Engineering the whole lot is another thing altogether.

Even with my car it is verging on / if not too powerful to be practical with it's current suspension you can not take off hard or it will go nowhere... You really need to baby it off the line...
You have to have excellent quality shocks and springs to have any hope of getting the power to the ground in the lower gears... I am sure all the 1/4 mile folks can tell you that... It is true also in a street car.

To do everything well it costs.

Extreme Clutch are awesome! My bro had the HD Clutch in his 120kw Brame and it worked well with it. I'm using the same clutch in my GTi atm and it's well worth it, on or off, no bodge in the middle haha.

They also make Extra Heavy Duty clutches with stronger clamp load, probably better suited for something at 160kw.

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

160kW is getting into the serious power area for a G13B....you will need to plann things appropriately including motor, turbo choice engine management and fuel system before starting. then comes the drive train...as mentioned by others you will need to speak with people who are making atleast the same power your chasing.

As far as clutches are concerned I strongly suggest PMing dmwdave and talk it over with him.

And lastly don't kid yourself, doing it properly, 160kw+ will cost you!!! so from the word go decide how much money your willing to throw at the car and set a reasonable goal from there.....

Cheers
Ben

t28 440cc injectors greddy emanage vitara pistons rebuild your box npc 4 puck brass button clutch greddy electronic boost controller 22 pound.

congrats welcome to 160 kw atw.

should only set you back 12 - 14 k

personally if you want to have a street sleeper,

then i would gut your car out and make it as light as possible in most areas, then aim for about 130-150fwkw. this you can get away with out rebuilding your bottom end (though its not advised).

im currently running 145kw on 15psi with stock bottom end without any dramas at present (fingers crossed).

this sort of power in a light car makes it fast enough to keep up with alot of street cars and without spending too much.


and most importantly, RESEARCH what your doing. could save you.

Disclaimer: This is my experience, as you can see even from nuffy's post above.. setups and results are wide and varied

The reason Suzitech would be aiming for that 10psi mark is cost, once you go above this mark the complexity increases:
- Vitara rebuild will handle it easily
- Chipped ECU will handle the fueling up to 10psi quite comfortably
- AFM can manage it (as standard ECU will be using this)
- Clutch doesn't have to be too insane to put the power down
- Standard GTi box _should_ handle it if looked after (the HD won't help)
- Standard pump/rail/injectors can provide enough fuel (perhaps even without aftermarket reg when using the chip, but reg would probably be a good idea)

I would probably say that on 10-12psi on a t25/t28 at around 100-120kw you are going to be pretty happy. Even if you build a setup with turbo that is capable of making bigger numbers, and just run it at lower boost with chip etc. and just work your way up it will be a good way to go (but spend as much on internals as you can afford ).

I have always seen 150kw - 160kw as 'the' mark. With my third turbo setup that is currently being built I am trying to edge closer to it. I am only mentioning this to show what I have been through.. and I know there is far more I _can_ do.and 150/160 is a decent stretch.. in reality I think I will be coming in at about 130-135. (Obviously the kw atw figures aren't absolute.. but they give a ballpark at least)

I can tell you, squeezing an extra 5kw from ~120kw is a serious exercise and everything starts getting a lot more involved. From the setup I am taking off the car I ran 12psi and managed ~110-120kw... to go further I had to swap to:

Intank Walbro fuel pump + bigger fuel filter (some do surge at the same time)
Custom fuel rail and rising rate reg (and all fuel lines/fittings in engine bay)
Larger injectors
Bigger turbo (up from t25) which also includes new manifold, dump, exhaust etc.
O-Ring the block
Ported head
Full aftermarket computer and swap AFM to MAP (tuning of chip will struggle above 12psi even with larger fuel system, and AFM is well and truely maxed out)
Clutch to get the power to the ground

Also add to that an LSD to stop the single stripes, and potentially a Cultus box if you can find one (I haven't puree'd my current box but won't be long).

Probably plenty more I haven't even come across yet, things like Electronic Boost Controller to try and control the boost with a bit more granularity and perhaps ignition (bigger single coil) or coil packs.

Like has already been mentioned.. if you want a 160kw setup and street proven performance.. I think your option is fairly clear. The cars in QLD are making these kinds of figures regularly. Also talk to the Swift guys turning up to the drags... they are all getting into pretty serious setups and they are all great guys who are willing to share information.

Checkout the Dyno/QMT page and have a chat to the guys making those kinds of numbers, sure they would be happy to help.

My estimates from my experience and raw cost of materials and specialist labour would probably put the price in at the 10-12k ballpark... so you have to like your Swift a fair bit

If there is one tip I can pass on is, if you are serious, buy a full aftermarket computer as soon as you start heading towards 6-10psi/100kw with a chip. Not only will you get the most out of your mods, but it will save you headaches of trying to get the standard ECU and sensors to do things they just weren't made to do.

Don't forget the lone ranger of swift power in NSW

I class you as 'crate motor' born in QLD

Sorry, that wasn't to say there aren't people making these numbers elsewhere.. but QLD has a fair few now (going off dyno day).. I know 2Swift is making about 150/160 in SA.. and Nuffy is ramping up the numbers for NSW.... everyone on here seems to have notched it up a bit in the last 12 months.. probably why my car is in parts at the moment

But yes.. you aren't forgotten ben *hug*

One thing I probably should have mentioned in my above post was.. you will want the car to stop and handle too.. and that really doesn't come cheap, best to talk to some of the circuit guys about this.

Or just get yourself a injected 5.0L 167kw stock

bzchi, 2swift actually makes 169kw

Not sure you're in the right place

pity bout the 1.5t stock weight as well and the stock fuel consumption of 14+L/100km etc..

Also thats 167kw at the fly.. so after it pulls that 500kgs odd more weight over a swift, then puts the power to the drive train and wheels... you arnt left with 167kw

i dont think he's after a 1.5t boat