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 Post subject: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 8:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
G'day all,

I'm part way through putting a G13B engine into a Moke and managed to drop the engine in for the first time yesterday. Everything is good apart from a lug on the gearbox which is fouling the modified subframe.

Before I grind it off, I'd like to know what is supposed to bolt onto it. Does anyone know (see photo attached and arrow)? I cant see any reference to it in my GTI workshop manual.

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 05, 2005 6:51 pm
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Location: Chch - Quake Capital
Sweet, deadliest mokokhana weapon ever devised 8)

The 3 cylinder versions use that lug to attach the stabiliser rod for the gearchange, the four cylinder versions use a stud a bit further over and had no lug at all, at some stage in the 90's they stopped having separate 3 and 4 casings and all versions had the lug, no prob to trim it off.


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:19 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Launceston, Tasmania
Super keen to see this build! Having seen a G13B in a mini this would be next level! Great work mate!

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 10:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Dattman wrote:
Sweet, deadliest mokokhana weapon ever devised 8)

The 3 cylinder versions use that lug to attach the stabiliser rod for the gearchange, the four cylinder versions use a stud a bit further over and had no lug at all, at some stage in the 90's they stopped having separate 3 and 4 casings and all versions had the lug, no prob to trim it off.


Many thanks Dattman - it's been ground off. Loads of clearance now. I'll post some more photos as things progress. In the meantime, here's one to be going on with - first fit of the engine albeit not on the custom mounts yet.

Cheers Adrian
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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 10:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Tassie_mk1 wrote:
Super keen to see this build! Having seen a G13B in a mini this would be next level! Great work mate!


Thanks mate - have uploaded the first of many build photos - here's another of the modified subframe (no rear mount fitted yet).

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 10:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
And another - back on 4 wheels after subframe transplant. Geometry needs some work :)

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
G'day all,

Latest pics from today's efforts. The engine is now bolted to the 3 x mounts. I will have to modify the headlamp bowl as I have ended up with approx. 25mm interference - I was unable to tilt the engine any further back as the water pump pulley was hitting the subframe tower. The alternator problem has gone away but I now have another problem.

The 4-2-1 exhaust manifold that came with the engine package is too big to fit between the block and the grille - I have max 100mm (allowing for 10mm clearance) and I need 160mm to use the 4-2-1 manifold.

Can anyone tell me how far a standard exhaust manifold sticks out from the block?

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 7:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 3493
Location: Brisbane
very interesting project.
If the water pump pulley is all that is stopping you from tilting the engine why not blank off the water pump and fit a davies craig electric water pump instead.
The inlet manifold and afm are off a mk1 swift and it looks like your very tight for room around that area too,if you went for a mk2/3 intake (or a mk1 reverse intake) you can modify the manifold so that the intake comes out at the gearbox side rather than the cam belt side, also on the mk2/3 intake the afm is not part of the throttle body but is housed in the pipework coming from the airbox which may make for an easier install.
Im pretty sure the std ex manifold will also stick out too far from block,modifying your set of extractors to hug the block better would be your easiest option.
if you need to try a mk2/3 intake ive got one you can borrow to trial fit.

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 9:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
dmwdave wrote:
very interesting project.
If the water pump pulley is all that is stopping you from tilting the engine why not blank off the water pump and fit a davies craig electric water pump instead.
The inlet manifold and afm are off a mk1 swift and it looks like your very tight for room around that area too,if you went for a mk2/3 intake (or a mk1 reverse intake) you can modify the manifold so that the intake comes out at the gearbox side rather than the cam belt side, also on the mk2/3 intake the afm is not part of the throttle body but is housed in the pipework coming from the airbox which may make for an easier install.
Im pretty sure the std ex manifold will also stick out too far from block,modifying your set of extractors to hug the block better would be your easiest option.
if you need to try a mk2/3 intake ive got one you can borrow to trial fit.


Thanks for the advice Dave - I did think about going the electric water pump route. Ironically I had a DC electric pump on the UK kit car I imported and it worked really well. Blanking off the water pump would only give me another 20 mm before the Mk 1 manifold hits the bulkhead (still not enough to overcome the headlamp bowl problem). I'm going to investigate alternative headlights which will be slimmer.

Thanks also for the offer of a loan manifold. I actually have a Mk2/3 manifold/AFM here - it was supplied with the engine/gb package. I went to the Mk1 because there was no way the Mk2/3 would clear the bulkhead without substantial mods.

In terms of swapping the inlet side, although it looks tight on my install, there's enough room to get a 180 degree silicone hose on the current inlet and then run a 70mm alloy pipe across the top of the cam cover to an air filter down in front of the distributor.

More pics to follow as the build progresses.

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
A little bit more progress this evening (and some photos to boot) ... the alternator is now bolted in situ and the longer drive belt is fitted. Clutch is now operational - cable and pedal mods have worked a treat. I've also managed to prep the driveshafts for machining and welding. I've done some drawings so should be able to get them made over the Christmas break.

Cheers for now,

Adrian

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[img width=600 height=450]http://www.mokeforum.com.au/gallery/11/2522-141215224932.jpeg[/img]


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 8:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
And so 4 bits of driveshafts become 2 + the exhaust manifold flange is now drilled out to accept the modified extractor pipes. Little steps

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 9:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 9:56 pm
Posts: 2058
Location: Cessnock
Cool build man..
Keen to see it how it goes under its own power..

Are you building for race or a cool as road car?

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
southy wrote:
Cool build man..
Keen to see it how it goes under its own power..

Are you building for race or a cool as road car?


Southy - thanks mate. Its primarily a road car but might get used at Lakeside a bit :D

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Happy New Year all,

Now we're back from the family Snowies Road Trip, I've managed to get a few hours under the carport working on the Moke. The modified driveshafts are in and everything works ok. The end result is pretty good for alignment also - driveshafts sit almost horizontal and only slightly out of line looking from above.

I've also lost the Cyclops look - in other words I've managed to modify the headlamp bowl to enable me to get the original light unit back in and clear the cam cover. Very happy with the result and a massive 8mm clearance :D

Next win has been the induction pipework and air filter - all looking quite blingy in polished ally and red silicone hose. I still have to cut the threads back on the clamps and make a bracket to keep everything in place, but otherwise ticked off the list ;D

As a result of mounting the air filter down at the front behind the grille, I've had to find a revised location for the radiator. I'm going to start by using the alloy rad that I put into the Moke originally. If that doesn't provide enough cooling I'll try a 2" alloy rad. I've fitted a 9" Davies Craig electric fan to the rad and decided to use the original radiator location. I'll mount the rad to the subframe tower at the back and the engine mount location at the front (next job).

Then I'm on to gear shift and welding up the extractors (which was going to be my first job back but I got distracted :D) so that I can fit the exhaust.

Shame its back to work tomorrow :(

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Spent most of the day fitting the radiator (it may not even need to come out again :D) Brackets look fine painted and bolted to the subframe tower at the rear and engine mounting at the front. Its nice and secure and the finishing strip does a good job of hiding all the chopping around the inner wing. I've also sorted the cooling hose arrangement (not fitted yet). 3 x Moke top hoses, 2 aluminium joiners and a short straight hose will enable me to connect inlet and outlet and avoid the possible chaffing around the gearbox area. Now where do I get red mini top hoses from?

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Seemed to spend this weekend taking stuff off/stripping stuff down/cleaning stuff up whilst waiting for some parts to arrive/be modified. My extractors are still not back from the welders and my gear linkage parts have not arrived (so I couldn't get on with modifying the gear shift). I'm also waiting for a set of red silicone hoses for the cooling system.

In the meantime, I've started on the fuelling. One of the key jobs for the EFI system is to run a return line from the fuel rail to the tank. With the older top fill, there's not much room anywhere around the tank when it situ. I've taken the tank out, removed the sender unit which is mounted on the front end and had a pause to think.

My plan (after the think) is to run the return line through a hole in the sender unit (through which I'll fit a M10 threaded 6mm brass barb with sealing washers each side). My fall back option is to fit a Suzuki Swift fuel pump (which has a built in return line) through a new hole cut in the end of the tank. This will require some significant mods to the partition in the side box (not preferred).

I'm intending to use the front storage compartment in the side box (the one in front of the tank in older Mokes) to fit the fuel filter and VL fuel pump, with the supply and return lines following the traditional route through the front bulkhead. Should be able to make progress on this next weekend, after the fuel hoses, barb and reducers arrive.

I've also been sorting out the booster location, brake pipe routes and coolant overflow tank location. It's a bit tight but everything will go under the bonnet ;D

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
I love it when parts arrive ;D

During the week I got all my red hoses (fuel and coolant), a selection of pipe connectors, reducers, barbs, clips and my modified extractors were finally ready. I'm still waiting on my dizzy and gear selector bracket, but I had more than enough stuff to make some real progress this weekend. The fuel pump, fuel filter and lines are all in (no electrics yet), the sender unit is modified to include a fuel return, the fuel tank is back in and all coolant hoses are now connected. I've also wrapped the extractors and bolted them up in situ (just the system and back box to fit now).

A few pics ...

Cheers Adrian

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
Quick question guys - is the radiator overflow tank mounting bracket part of the inner wing or can it be unbolted/uncrewed? I'm looking for one to fit mine on the Moke bulkhead.

Cheers Adrian


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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:54 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:19 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Launceston, Tasmania
From memory it is part of the panel. I have looked at a few pictures I have here of my wrecked mk1 engine bays and can't see any bolts for them on either shell. Judging by the rest of the build it wouldn't be hard for you to make one up though. :)

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 Post subject: Re: Moke G13B conversion
PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:44 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Brisbane
adriantillin wrote:
Quick question guys - is the radiator overflow tank mounting bracket part of the inner wing or can it be unbolted/uncrewed? I'm looking for one to fit mine on the Moke bulkhead.

Cheers Adrian


Thanks Tassie - just wanted to check before I got busy with some galv sheet :D

Cheers Adrian


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