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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:36 am 
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Location: Christchurch
I think it would be worth your while having a talk to Autobend ( http://www.autobend.co.nz/ ). They have a cad design for the flange so you don't have that cost. They have various designs of collector cones off the shelf. They can mandrel bend to the required shape so there's no cutting and welding required. They might even be able to calculate the required pipe lengths/bend angles but I've never asked that question.

Obviously the effective pipe lengths need to match given the bend angles and length of pipe and this is pretty hard to get right by cutting and welding lengths from mandrel U bends.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 6:52 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
If you go to big on the primaries you will lose power down low

It is quite a science to get it all to work


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 6:09 am 
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Location: Christchurch
As Steve said extractor design is a science in itself.

I guess the really serious racers will build an extractor for each engine configuration.

Basically the primary diameter is a function of bore/stroke, valve size, CR and cam. The length determines the rpm range where maximum scavenging will take place. Short for higher rpm and longer for mid range or lower rpm but obviously this needs to fit with the cams being used. I'm pretty sure Graham Bell's book on 4 stroke tuning contains all the formulas if you want to calculate the diameter and length properly ( it's probably been copied to the internet by now ).

I guess the keys points to consider are that any commercially built extractor is unlikely to provide full benefit as they really need to be built to your engine configuration but on the flip side any diy built extractor that isn't equal length is unlikely to yield a better result.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
Blake has sent me a tubular cultus manifold. Thanks Blake! =D> . Yes they are skinny pipes but it's the basis for a system...means I don't have to muck around making a flange. He looked for a cast manifold but it was the wrong one. Yes I could use mine but it's 160 plus gst to resurrect. I'll use 1.5" pipe for the primaries...4,2 1. If the standard cast is ok I'll just make the header like that....with equal pipe lengths in the same configuration....extend the secondaries to the sway bar in 1.75" and merge into 2.25". That's the plan.......I'll overthink it like everything else and never get the car back on the track so I'll stick to basic and use it as a starting point. I'll see how it goes on the dyno and the track. If it's not tuned well enough for what we want in terms of performance then I have exhaust, cam dialing and stand alone computer options to explore. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
Not much happening lately as one of my kids is being a stupid immature idiot. Been fixing other cars trying to sort out children and other life crap.

I leave Los Angeles tonight and once home I have got 18 days off on Leave. I'm going for the big push. Everything is coming together....
It's been a right bugger finding a gasket for the oil pump. But bewitched gti has me covered on that. Thanks Steve!

I have bought a setrab oil cooler and a mocal thermostat sandwich plate. A canton 1 quart accumulator with 8 AN lines. It's all in the effort to run the oil cooler with a low oil pressure surge remedy. I know all about dry sump systems, windage trays etc etc but looking for a bolt on quick fix. Short races it will make no difference I imagine and we don't appear to have low pressure surges around Manfield but then we only had a light so wouldn't really know. I read Dattman suffered low pressure on long left handers somewhere? Anyway....talking with my mate Phil he put the idea of the canton accusump in my head and now I have one. I got the stuff from the UK from JCC rally and he liked the setrab coolers....boy it sure looks built beautifully. The shipping took less than 6 days! Arrived well packaged and shipping was only $40 nz. I got the cooler, mocal OTS1 sandwich plate with 1/2 bsp to 8 AN fittings, the setrab 1/2 bsp to 8AN fittings with dowty seals. The whole setup isn't cheap but then neither is doing up the engine.

I'll post some more pics in a few days before it goes back into our now dusty car.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 5:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:00 am
Posts: 1526
Location: Londoninium
JCC rally are pretty good, bought from them a few times when the local guys wouldn't or couldn't supply, and it was always cheaper including postage to OZ.

GTP


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
yup JCC rally are very good. The setrab cooler adapters came only one to a packet but the picture showed two and nothing said only one included. I queried Dave at JCC race and rally...he apologised for the confusion and as an apology for the confusion he has sent me one FOC from the UK...should be here any day. I was happy to pay for the other one but he admitted the picture leads you to believe two are included. so the short of it is...JCC race and rally are very much worth dealing with for cooling stuff.

Another huge thanks to Suzistore for providing me with the oil pump gasket (in fact two!) that I needed as he other option was either make one or wait two weeks from ex japan. Steve got them sent here in a few days from Aussie. My pic shows a Suzistore sticker under the door handles...thanks bewitched gti...Steve!

The motor is mostly together....yes its not painted...no one will see that...and I'm running out of time so once the box is done its time to refit it soon. The rusty oil pressure sender unit will be removed...its just covering the hole...i have a remote mount on a braided line for the senders.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
Ah poos and wees. Fitted a non CAS pump as I couldn't be bothered trying to find all the bits needed for the crank angle sensor in case I went to an aftermarket ECU. Thought I'd just mod the dizzy. Ratting through the parts box this morning looking for a thermoswitch I found a crank angle sensor and the sump to match. DOH :oops: I guess if needed one day I'll have to do it in position


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 11:16 pm
Posts: 3229
Location: Perth WA
When the time comes, I’ll rebuild a factory baleno oil pump and send it to you then

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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
might have to do that Steve if the stock ECU with the group A chip doesn't work well. Got a new belt for the under drive pulley today...had to guess how much tension on the belt as no spring....


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 12:00 am 
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Location: Perth WA
:lol: the springs are a factory liability, chuck those in the bin.
If you can do a 90 degree twist, but no further (fingers on the belt on the long side near exhaust) then the tension is right.
If group A chip isn’t suitable, source a Sandros Chip from Teamswift, it was setup for the 3tech 210/340 cams, so yours being wilder still should be more suitable
The 952 (Group A) grind is more conservative than 210/340..


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
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Location: NZ
yes the spring was the thing that caused the belt to jump a tooth in the first place...so Ill never keep them in there. I tensioned it using the mark1 handometer....thanks for the info....as luck has it Ive just twisted the belt 90 degrees on the long part of the belt on the exhaust side and thats it...almost bang on 90 degrees with a fair amount of finger pressure so happy... =D>


Thanks for the info Steve.

I hope I have not gone too wild with the cams...everyone is telling me I should have stuck with cultus ones...well...guess Ill find out soon enough.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
fitting a cultus manifold is not as simple as bolting it on....the braces are all different except one so now I'm making a new brace for the middle....plus blanking off the multitude of vacuum tubes and working out which ones I need....any one with any info on that?
cheers. G


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 8:33 pm 
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Location: NZ
At every turn there is an issue....finally got gearbox together....hope it all works ok.
Engine ready to have flywheel and clutch fitted...just a question on one part....the previous manifold did not have a centre brace as shown in the manual....it had a brace by the dizzy and one at the alternator end. Now this has a cultus manifold I guess I should make one? Anyone have some pics of one?
Going to make some headers but due to time refitted the rusty manifold....took ages to whip it into a reasonable shape to refit it.
Made a remote oil pressure sender block on the mill. (NPT) as got stuff in the states.
Made a block for the cold start valve....don't need this ay?


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:45 am 
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Location: Perth WA
The braces are actually factory overkill, unless you’re rallying and jumping etc I wouldn’t worry.
I run the curved brace near the dizzy but delete the one under intake to block, and from throttlebody to alternator end.
Some people delete the cold start valve (as replacement is $350au) and unless you’re running arctic conditions, the coolant lines to throttlebody aren’t needed (delete those and you’ve one less potential leak point)
Interesting you stuck with factory exhaust header, Ellpee has a Group N version here (ex-rally car part) where it’s been ported through the cast header, and uses fabricated larger secondaries.
4-1 are usually more effective with high duration camshafts, but depends what torque curve you need in your chosen discipline


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 4:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
Hi Steve. I was given a tubular cultus manifold so I could use the flange and make my own headers but time means I'm just getting it going for now on the factory cast manifold.

Ok no worries I'll forget the braces. =D>

Hey the little red electric valve on the back of the manifold with two small vacumn lines....what is it? Us not mentioned in my manual unless I'm looking in the wrong section?

What about the ICS valve....do I need to run that? I do have one....the other one is broken.

I blanked off the PCV valve hole into the manifold.

Cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 11:16 pm
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Location: Perth WA
It’s brown, and it’s the evap canister control unit, only needed for emissions.
The pcv is a good thing, but if you’ve got a vent to atmosphere catch can you don’t need it, crankcase ventilation is important, however you do it


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
Oh yes definitely have a catch can with a filter on it....AN10 fitting on the rocker cover to the catch can....plenty of ventilation.

Great...looks like I don't need any of that stuff on the manifold...
Cheers


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:38 am
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Location: Christchurch
If you're fuel tank is vented then the evap canister won't do anything useful anyway. It's designed catch any fuel vapor evaporating from your fuel tank so in the production car the fuel tank will be sealed.


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 Post subject: Re: Our little cultus racer
PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am
Posts: 173
Location: NZ
Thanks guys....now I know.

I was wondering what all that stuff was....when I was a mechanic it was points and plugs!

So....I have removed the ICS valve....Evap canister control valve and the cold start valve....I have no hot water running through the TB. I have no pcv valve. I have a catch can.....the fuel tank is vented....all holes are plugged or blanked off. Have I done anything wrong here?

Now the ECU needs the water temp sensor....what does it do with that?

I'll be fitting the engine into the car on Friday. The manifold has been surfaced and one crack welded....it was not flat....I replaced most exhaust bolts for studs. Now I see two cracks around the oxy sensor....rrrrgh. :cry: back to my engineer mate.


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